Let’s face it: while Monterrey is one of Mexico’s most important cities, it is not exactly a tourist hotspot. Yet we’re here to tell you why this business-oriented metropolis deserves your attention. I’ve visited Monterrey a handful of times over the past decade, and I’ve come to love its powerful mountain landscapes, its fabulous food scene, and most of all, its people. Regios are driven and passionate, and incredibly proud to be from Monterrey.

Head north with us today – we promise you won’t be disappointed!

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

Where to Stay

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It’s getting chilly here in Mexico City, and that can only mean one thing: the craving for something sweet is hitting hard. The truth is, cloudy fall mornings feel much more manageable when faced with a hot cup of coffee and a piece of pan dulce.

Like so many aspects of our culinary culture, pan dulce is a reflection of our heritage. It was the Spanish who brought wheat and traditional baking techniques with them during Colonial times, with the first registered bakeries sprouting across the country in the sixteenth century. Over the years, we have developed an extensive baking culture, showcasing our own ingredients, recipes, and traditions, while incorporating other influences –like Italian, French, and even Chinese – as well. The result: a delicious, eclectic, and deeply comforting pastry culture that is as essential during our most important holidays, like Día de Muertos, as it is part of our daily lives.

So without further ado, here’s our guide to just a few icons from the world of Mexican pan dulce. Dig in!

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

The Mexzine Pan Dulce Guide:

Concha: Perhaps the most popular and beloved of Mexican pastries, the concha is named after the seashell-like sugar pattern that covers its fluffy surface. Traditionally, conchas are covered in vanilla or chocolate, although bakeries get creative with variations ranging from pink strawberry to bright green matcha.

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I’ve always felt like Puerto Escondido is the place to go for a reset. It’s where I traveled with my friends before moving to New York for grad school; where I went for a yoga retreat after quitting my longtime magazine job; and where I escaped for a solo trip after a bad breakup. Maybe it’s the chill, surfer vibes; the power of the Pacific, or the fact that there aren’t any large resorts or chain restaurants (yet). Come to think of it, maybe it’s the mezcal. Whatever it is, Puerto never fails to provide a breezy escape from it all, and we’ve chosen a few spots that capture its magic perfectly.
Let’s go!

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

Where to Stay

Casona Sforza // Designed by Mexican architect Alberto Kalach, this stunning adult-only property maximizes ocean views and fresh breeze with its iconic series of brick arches and vaults, equally harmonious and photogenic. Earthy hues and features like private pools or airy terraces make each suite a serene refuge, yet there are plenty of excuses to head outside, from the lounge chair-lined pool to the secluded beach. Find balance with a sound healing session or a massage, and end your day with dinner at the excellent La Bóveda.

Casa To // Tucked in a quiet street in the lively Brisas de Zicatela, this Brutalist dream was conceived by Ludwig Godefroy as a reimagined Oaxacan temple. Within its concrete walls and cave-like structures, each corner invites peaceful contemplation. The suites are equally soothing, with high ceilings, minimal decor, and quiet, private gardens. Upstairs, Glou Glou serves fresh, locally-inspired fare paired with a beautiful selection of organic and natural wines, courtesy of Chef Luis Pabón and sommelier Gabriela Moreno.

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Brandon Berkson here, founder of Mexzine. I scoured the internet for the best boutique hotel deals across Mexico—so, without further ado, welcome to our fourth monthly Mexscuento Sheet. To clarify: we don’t make a single peso of commission off these deals, so you can trust them full-throttle. They’re for paid subscribers only (upgrade here for $7/month to access all our guides, dispatches, and timely deal sheets). Each hotel offers 25% off or more—nothing under that makes the list.

Happy browsing! ⬇️

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The History & Origins of Día de Muertos

Día de Muertos can be traced back to pre-Hispanic cultures like the Maya, Aztecs, Olmecs, and Toltecs, who believed death is just part of life –not the end, but a transition to another realm. In the afterlife, spirits remain connected to the human world and can, in fact, return for a visit every now and then. This belief, held to this day by many, brings a certain naturalness and comfort to the way we Mexicans approach death: not a taboo, but another part of our journey. In fact, the Aztecs believed the dead traveled to their final resting place in the underworld called the Mictlán, and offered food, water, and tools to accompany their loved ones on the long journey.

With the Spanish conquest in the sixteenth century came Catholic customs and beliefs, including celebrating All Saints’ Day on November 1, and All Souls’ Day on November 2. As with many other aspects of Spanish culture and religion, indigenous communities adopted these holidays and their dates, incorporating elements of Catholicism into their own traditions. The core belief, however, remains the same: death is a continuation of life.

Día de Muertos may look different from one region to another, even from one household to the next. Some people set up altars at home, others go to church, while others search for the perfect pan de muerto throughout the season. Here at Mexzine, we think there’s no right or wrong way to celebrate, as long as there’s a good dose of respect for tradition and curiosity to learn.

Día de Muertos Basics

Altars or Ofrendas: Present in homes, cemeteries, and public spaces –from town squares to restaurants and hotels–, altars honor those who have left the physical realm and welcome them during the nights of Día de Muertos. Setup styles can vary greatly, from traditional three-level altars, representing earth, heaven, and purgatory, to simple, homemade versions. Tradition dictates that altars must represent the four elements: water, to purify the soul; fire, present in the candles that light the soul’s path to eternity; earth, in the form of food; and wind, represented in intricate papel picado, whose intricate patterns were believed to let the soul through during its journey. Other possible elements include copal or incense, calaveritas de azúcar (sugar skulls), pan de muerto, and photos of the deceased, as well as some of their favorite foods or personal items.

Pan de Muerto: A highlight of the season for many, this traditional bread is typically made with flour, water, salt, yeast, butter, and eggs, as well as orange peel or essence that gives it a distinct flavor. It is believed that the bread’s round shape represents the mound of earth that covers a coffin, while the long strips on top are shaped like bones. A healthy coat of sugar crowns the pastry. These days, modern pan de muerto-inspired treats can come in the form of coffee drinks, cookies, and cocktails.

Catrina: Imagined by printmaker José Guadalupe Posada, Catrina is a dapper skeleton lady, usually outfitted in a fancy dress and feathered hat. While she was part of a series of calaveras (or skeletons) that Posada created back in the late nineteenth century, her claim to fame came in 1944 during a traveling art exhibition to the Art Institute of Chicago, with flyers and promotional materials featuring her on the cover. Three years later, she was depicted by Diego Rivera on his iconic mural, Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central, surrounded by dozens of characters representing Mexican history.

Cempasúchil Flower: Endemic to Mexico and Central America, this bright orange marigold has been used in religious rituals since the time of the Aztecs, who believed the flowers represented the sun, light, life, and death. The name comes from the Náhuatl word “cempohualxóchitl,” which means 20-petaled flower, referring to its abundant petals. Believed to guide spirits back to earth during Día de Muertos with its color and scent, cempasúchil grows mainly in the states of Hidalgo, Oaxaca, Puebla, Michoacán, Morelos, and the State of Mexico. If you’re in Mexico City during Día de Muertos season, make sure to stop by Mercado Jamaica, the city’s stunning flower market, which becomes flooded with these beauties.

Celebrations Throughout the Country

Like so many things in Mexico, expressions of Día de Muertos vary from one region to another. In Oaxaca, for example, families and communities create colorful tapetes de arena, or sand carpets, to represent life’s brevity. Although communities design these all year long to honor their dead, carpets are especially stunning during Día de Muertos.

Michoacán hosts some of the most stunning celebrations you’ll ever see. Small towns like Pátzcuaro, Janitzio, and Tzintzuntzan become completely immersed in this celebration, called Noche de las Ánimas, with homes, cemeteries, and public spaces lined with candles and bright cempasúchil flowers. Families clean and prepare their loved ones’ graves, and many of them spend the entire night at the cemetery, praying for them and keeping them company. A bucket list experience for many –and one to witness respectfully–, Día de Muertos on the island of Janitzio is a true spectacle, with small candlelit boats sailing around Lake Pátzcuaro.

Over in Yucatán, the traditional Maya celebration is called Hanal Pixán, which means “food of the souls.” During this celebration, the departed come back to the human realm to enjoy their favorite meals and hang out with their loved ones, and it unfolds over three days: October 31, dedicated to children’s souls; November 1, for adult souls; and November 2, for all souls. One of the most anticipated elements is, of course, the food, which includes seasonal fruit like oranges and tangerines, as well as mucbipollo, a large tamal stuffed with chicken and pork, and cooked in an underground pib.

Save The Date

There’s still time to book a Mexico trip for this upcoming Día de Muertos. Here are a few reasons to join the celebration at some of our favorite hotels:

Casa Polanco, Mexico City: The hotel lobby will host La Muerte Como Tránsito, a large-scale installation in collaboration with Mexican designer and Barón & Vicario founder, Raúl de la Cerda, blending art, tradition, and craftsmanship.

Casa de Sierra Nevada, A Belmond Hotel, San Miguel de Allende: The weekend-long celebrations will include a five-course dinner inspired by a traditional ofrenda and seasonal cocktails at Tunki Rooftop. If you’re feeling creative, you can learn how to make mole and pan de muerto at Sazón Cooking School with Chef Rubén Yáñez.

Rosewood Mandarina, El Monteón, Nayarit: Día de Muertos will take over the entire resort with a multi-generational approach, including family-friendly endeavors like alebrije mask creation and mini altar-building sessions designed to honor pets who have left the physical world.

Agua Morada, Acaxochitlán, Hidalgo: This stunning forest hideaway (featured a few weeks ago in our Culture Edit) will invite guests on an immersive journey alongside a local family, who will share all sorts of local traditions –from cooking mole and building an altar to visiting the cemetery.

Hacienda San José Cholul, Tixkokob, Yucatán: This restored eighteenth-century hacienda will host a traditional Hanal Pixán celebration, including a step-by-step altar creation and a mucbipollo cooking class.

And that concludes today’s issue of Mexzine. Want to send us a story idea, suggestion, or introduce yourself? Email us at Brandon@Mexzine.com or Cristina@Mexzine.com.

As we get deeper into October, there’s one thing on our minds here at Mexzine: Día de Muertos. Here in Mexico City, cempasúchil flowers are painting the town a lovely hue of orange, and every day is an excuse to bite into a piece of fluffy pan de muerto. With that spirit, I’m excited to share our chat with writer Luisa Navarro, author of the gorgeous book Mexico’s Day of the Dead and founder of the New York shop Mexico in My Pocket, where she shares her passion for all things Mexico. An exciting art fair coming to Mérida and a space dedicated to one of my favorite Mexican wine projects round up today’s journey.

As always, thanks for being here!

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

Let’s Chat: Luisa Navarro, Journalist & Founder of Mexico in My Pocket

Born in Dallas to Mexican parents, writer and entrepreneur Luisa Navarro is deeply proud to be a Mexican-American. But she didn’t get here alone. Throughout her life, her family has helped her embrace her identity, and now she has made it her life mission to invite others to do the same. Cristina Alonso talked to Luisa about the joys and responsibilities of creating a window to Mexico through her Brooklyn shop, Mexico in My Pocket, and her book, Mexico’s Day of the Dead.

Mexzine: Through Mexico in My Pocket, you are an ambassador of Mexican culture and tradition. Do you think people still hold misconceptions about Mexico?

Luisa: That’s very kind, although I don’t really see myself as an ambassador. I see myself as a journalist and storyteller. I think it’s important to tell you my story. I grew up in Dallas; my mom is from Saltillo, and my dad is from Michoacán. My mom taught us Spanish from the time we were little because she wanted us to keep our culture, and in preschool, it was really hard for me to make friends because I didn’t speak English. As I started learning English, I heard little kids talking and saying very negative things about Mexico. I was only 4, and these are some of my first memories. I remember telling my mom I didn’t want to be Luisa anymore; I wanted to be called Hannah. I was struggling. And my mom said, “Luisa, being Mexican is the best, and I’m going to show you why.” She talked to my grandmothers, and they all started educating me. Instead of denying my identity, I fell in love with it.

As I grew older, I realized there were still many negative stories about Mexicans and Mexican-Americans, and I got so mad. I’m a doer, so I realized I had to stop complaining and do something about it. I was working in the news at the time, but the stories I wanted to tell weren’t getting picked up, so I created my own blog. I made it my life mission to tell positive stories about Mexico. That’s where Mexico in My Pocket comes from. It is about accepting our identity.

Mexzine: Your book, Mexico’s Day of the Dead, is a thoughtful and colorful immersion into Día de Muertos. What do you think attracts people (especially foreigners) to this holiday?

Luisa: Death is universal; death affects all of us. The #1 place that knows how to honor our loved ones is Mexico. In the US, when you talk about death, people get very uncomfortable. I have a personal story. My cousin Lila came to the US when she was around 12, and we became best friends. Growing up Mexican-American felt very lonely, but she was my person. She passed away at 24 from a stroke, and I had no idea what to do with that loss. I still grapple with that grief. I think people who experience loss are looking for meaning and answers.

Something that makes me very proud about our culture is the fact that there is always a seat at the table; there is always a reason to celebrate. But you have to be very respectful about these traditions. Some people are like, “Are you celebrating the devil on Día de Muertos?” That’s why I wrote the book. We’re not celebrating death itself. That’s not it at all. We are remembering and celebrating our own.

Mexzine: Through Mexico in my Pocket, you sell all sorts of beautiful crafts and ornaments for Día de Muertos altars. Have you noticed an increased interest in home altars recently?

Luisa: I think more people are reclaiming their identity. I have many Mexican-American customers who weren’t allowed to build an altar because their mom saw it as brujería, or they hadn’t seen a reason to do it. I love that people are reconnecting with their culture, and it’s never too late to do that. I do think people are more interested in the altar, and I think that opens the door for them to be curious about other aspects of our culture.

Mexzine: What have been the greatest joys and challenges of opening a brick-and-mortar shop?

Luisa: It’s one of the most challenging things I’ve ever done. Entrepreneurship is not for the weak. There are high highs and low lows. But I do it because I believe in sharing my culture. When people come in, I get to talk to them about it. I’m not a math person; I knew nothing about margins. I’ve had to learn a lot about running a business. But moments like having a Mexican-American come in because they are building their first altar keep me going. It’s about creating a space for us in a world where sometimes we feel like we don’t belong.

Mexzine: How do you find the craftspeople and artisans who you work with for the shop?

Luisa: I started Mexico in my Pocket as a blog in 2015. I did it for fun. I didn’t put my face on it. I was terrified. I ran the risk of the news network finding out and taking it away. I didn’t “come out” until I left the news world. It was technically a travel blog, and then COVID hit. That was when artisans started messaging me on Instagram, because they were struggling. They rely so much on tourism for selling. They asked if I could promote them, so I tried creating this dummy website where it would link to their product, but it didn’t work for two reasons: the cost of shipping was too high, and they wanted the customers to wire them money, but Americans were not comfortable with that. They really needed help, and I felt this responsibility. I set up Shopify, and people started buying products. I was so excited because the artisans were actually the ones who helped me. I felt like I had a purpose.

I find many artisans through Instagram, and others just by going to small towns in Mexico. I grew up in a home filled with Mexican crafts because my Mom loved them. She’s the reason I know about coconut masks from Guerrero, or milagros from San Miguel. I’m obsessed.

Mexzine: You are also designing trips to Oaxaca. How have people responded to those? Who is the kind of traveler who is searching for experiences like these?

Luisa: I went to France with my husband a few years ago, and I didn’t speak the language, so I felt very vulnerable. I realized many people who don’t speak Spanish feel like that in Mexico. A lot of people who join me have traveled to places like Cancun and want to experience a more authentic Mexico. A lot of them are younger women in their mid thirties or older women; sometimes couples. Overall, it’s people who are looking to learn more about culture and who want a real, authentic experience.

Now Open: Espacio Mariatinto, Valle de Guadalupe

For more than two decades, Mariatinto has earned a loyal following among Mexican wine lovers. Founders Chef Guillermo González Beristain – of Monterrey’s iconic Pangea – and oenologist Guillermo Falcón imagined a selection of wines for pairing not just with food, but with shared moments. Their vision now has a home in Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico’s top wine-producing region. Espacio Mariatinto, the brand’s first public space, offers its full selection by the glass or bottle, plus rare and special editions, with food for pairing. We can’t wait to grab a seat on the sunny terrace and sip on a chilled Mariatinto Blanco. – CA

Art Focus: Bienal de Yucatán

As if we didn’t have enough reasons to be obsessed with Mérida, the city is preparing to host a contemporary art fair: Bienal de Yucatán, from November 26, 2006 to February 28, 2027. Curated by artist Abraham Cruzvillegas and focused on language and its emotional and political expressions, the debut exhibition, VOCAL, will showcase 76 artists from 20 countries, including names like Bárbara Sánchez Kane, Mario García Torres, and Yoko Ono. Spanning 16 locations across the city, including Biblioteca Yucatanense and Gran Parque La Plancha, access to VOCAL will be completely free. – CA

And that concludes today’s issue of Mexzine. Want to send us a story idea, suggestion, or introduce yourself? Email us at Brandon@Mexzine.com or Cristina@Mexzine.com.

Past Issues:

Cobblestone streets. Technicolor-hued houses. Pink church towers rising above the city. No matter how many images of San Miguel de Allende we’ve seen, reality always seems to surpass them. A constant presence in “best of” lists, it’s no secret that this corner of Guanajuato is a favorite among Mexican and international travelers. Beyond the hype, our selection takes you to some of our most beloved places —those we think truly showcase the city’s spirit: warm, hospitable, artsy, and with a very Mexican soul.
Vamos!

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

Where to Stay

Casa de Sierra Nevada, A Belmond Hotel, San Miguel de Allende // Encompassing six historic casonas dotted across downtown San Miguel, every corner of Casa de Sierra Nevada is infused with charm. Details like wooden furnishings and elegant tiles bring its 37 rooms and suites to life, each of them a unique retreat. In between strolls along the city’s cobblestone streets, unwind with a treatment at Laja Spa (we love the 120-minute Ritual Mexicano, featuring a pre-Hispanic massage and hot medicinal plant compresses) or relax by the outdoor pool. At sunset, grab a cocktail at Tunki Rooftop, designed in collaboration with Mexico City’s Handshake Bar.

La Valise // San Miguel is no stranger to design-forward hotels, yet La Valise feels like it’s in a category all of its own. Hidden in plain sight in downtown San Miguel, the property features six distinct suites, each gorgeously decorated with contemporary wooden furniture, warm textiles, and even whimsical murals by artist Pedro Friedeberg, whose work also crowns the pool in the main courtyard. Warm touches like homemade breakfast every morning, personalized tours, and in-suite massages make each stay feel extra special.

Matilda // A San Miguel icon, Matilda transformed the city’s hotel landscape with its daring design and personalized service more than 15 years ago. Part hotel, part art gallery, each space draws the eye with bold details, from framed kimonos to a color-packed mural by artist Claudio Limón that gives the outdoor pool a playful feel. Relaxing at Matilda means feasting on Chef Vicente Torres’s creations at Moxi, sipping tequila under the sun at Monkey Bar, or unwinding with a treatment at its excellent spa.

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With grand sierras, majestic landscapes, and the bluest skies you have ever seen, the Bajío region encompasses several states across central Mexico: Querétaro, Guanajuato, Michoacán, and Jalisco, as well as Aguascalientes and parts of San Luis Potosí and Zacatecas. While the region’s beauty and cultural riches are well loved, its culinary treasures still fly a bit under the radar –even to us Mexicans. To introduce you to some of the wonders of Bajío cuisine, we enlisted Chef Rubén Yáñez, who leads Sazón Cooking School at the gorgeous Casa de Sierra Nevada, A Belmond Hotel, San Miguel de Allende.

Let’s go!

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

Let’s get cooking

“Many people are unaware of the region’s strong Indigenous roots, particularly the influence of the Otomí and Chichimeca peoples,” explains Chef Rubén. “These traditions can be seen in practices such as the making of ceremonial tortillas, which are stamped with mesquite-wood seals and decorated with natural pigments. The region also has a rich tradition of foraging for the fruits of native cacti, including tunas, xoconostles, garambullos, and borrachitas.”

These endemic treasures are just the beginning. As Mexico’s heartland, the Bajío is one of its most prolific agricultural regions. Among its most prized products, Chef Rubén highlights “nopales (cactus paddles), xoconostles (sour cactus fruit), corn, verdolagas (purslane), and fruits such as apricots, peaches, guavas, and strawberries, which are widely used throughout the region.” His personal favorites, though, are xoconostle and dried chilies. “I really like xoconostle because my mom has been using it in some dishes since I was little, and because of its tangy flavor. The sweet and smoky flavor of the chilies is perfect for making marinades.”

While the Bajío comprises several states, each with its own diversity and intricacies, Chef Rubén considers the following to be some of the region’s most emblematic dishes:

– Enchiladas Mineras: Corn tortillas bathed in guajillo sauce, stuffed with ranchero cheese and diced onions. Dressed with chopped lettuce, grated cheese, pickled chilies, and potatoes. A Guanajuato classic.

– Enchiladas Potosinas: Corn tortillas made with ancho or colorado chili masa, stuffed with fresh cheese, onions, and salsa. Fried and topped with onions, cream, cheese, and lettuce. A San Luis Potosí specialty.

– Carnitas: Small cuts of pork fried in lard and served with corn tortillas, spicy salsa, and avocado slices. The best known carnitas are from Michoacán, although you can also find them in Puebla and Mexico City.

– Red Pozole: A steaming bowl of cacahuazintle (hominy) corn, guajillo and ancho chilies, and pork. A dish that hails from Colonial times; this particular recipe is popular in Jalisco.

– Sopa Tarasca: A hearty soup made with chicken broth enhanced with tomato sauce and, sometimes, epazote leaf and oregano. Served with fried tortilla strips and grated cheese. A Michoacán staple.

– Tamales Canarios: Small yellow tamales made with rice flour, butter, egg yolks, milk, and raisins. Traditionally wrapped in corn husks and served with hot chocolate or atole. A popular dish in Michoacán and Querétaro.

– Guacamayas: Traditional sandwiches made with hard-boiled egg, avocado, chicharrón, and a very spicy tomato salsa. From Guanajuato to the world.

“Several of these recipes can be found in El Bajío, the cookbook we created in collaboration with Apartamento,” adds Chef Rubén proudly. The book is part of Belmond’s Recipes & Wanderings cookbook series, which already includes tomes on Penang, Liguria, and Campania. To Chef Rubén, the region’s cuisine can be summed up in three words: “Diverse, historic, and traditional.”

Recipe: Chile Trilogy

To crown this journey across the Bajío region, we are honored to share one of Chef Ruben’s favorite recipes. Chile Trilogy explores three ways to make chiles rellenos: stuffed with shrimp, mushrooms, or iconic en nogada.

Foundation: Charred Peppers

Ingredients

• 20 jalapeño peppers

Method: Char the jalapeños over an open flame or grill. Carefully peel, deseed, and remove the veins while keeping the peppers intact, ready to be filled.

Shrimp & Poblano Cream Sauce

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I'm Bárbara Terán, and I'm taking over today's Mexzine to share my favorite independent boutiques in the place I call home, Mexico City. I'm the Editor-in-Chief of Style Hunter, the fashion and lifestyle title from Design Hunter, and before that I was Deputy Editor at Vogue México. In short, I've spent my career finding the shops and brands worth knowing about.

In every place I visit, I find it essential to discover local design stores, whether it’s clothing, accessories, crafts, or creative concepts that reflect the destination’s identity. Traveling also means taking a piece of a place’s culture with me – something that makes the experience more authentic and turns each item into a unique reminder of that place.

While Mexico City’s vastness makes exploring the entire metropolis a challenge, I’ve prepared a selection of stores, organized by neighborhood, where you can find Mexican design and concepts from across Latin America.

Enjoy!

–Bárbara

Mexico City Shopping Guide

Roma

Metate //Founded by Constanza Antoni during the pandemic, this space celebrates contemporary design and Mexican craftsmanship. Its Orizaba Street branch reflects the project’s essence: a place where fashion, utilitarian objects, and unique pieces converge to celebrate local and Latin American creativity. Carefully curated by Antoni, the store invites visitors to discover proposals that blend tradition and modernity.

Irene Buffa // Located on Colima Street, this shop has become a point of reference for those seeking second-hand luxury brands and who value sustainability and authenticity. The boutique reflects Buffa’s vision as a creator and curator, bringing together exclusive pieces that highlight international style. With a carefully curated aesthetic and a personalized shopping experience, the store stands out as a key spot within Mexico City’s vibrant creative scene.

180° Shop // This space brings together local and international brands, offering a diverse selection that reflects Mexico City’s creative dynamism. Beyond fashion and accessories from emerging and established designers, the store features Mexico-themed merchandise that celebrates the country’s cultural identity. With a curation that blends global trends with national talent, 180° offers style, authenticity, and contemporary design all in one place. If you’re in the market for exclusive Veja sneaker models, look no further.

Colima 112 // At the heart of Colonia Roma, this shop brings together contemporary design proposals with a focus on Latin American creativity. Its curation combines local and international brands, offering fashion, accessories, and objects that reflect both Mexican identity and global trends.

Fueguia 1833 // This Argentine fragrance boutique has become a go-to spot for those looking for unique scents with personality. Perfumes are crafted with natural ingredients and sustainable processes, each one telling a story that evokes landscapes, memories, and cultures. The space feels elegant yet intimate, with collections that resemble works of art. With its artisanal approach and Latin American roots, Fuegia has earned a place as an international reference in niche perfumery. If you want to find a truly special fragrance, this is the place.

La Condesa

Fa/chá Concept Store // This shop focuses on everyday pieces that feel special: garments with design, personality, and character, created for those who want to move beyond the generic without sacrificing comfort or functionality. Here, you’ll find independent brands and designers from around the world, with a strong presence of Latin American talent, combining emerging projects with established labels that share a modern vision.

Armario Comunal // A favorite among those who love fashion with a sustainable twist, this store focuses on carefully selected second-hand clothing, offering unique pieces that mix style, history, and creativity. It’s the kind of place where you can find hidden gems that go beyond fast trends, while also supporting conscious consumption. With its relaxed vibe and accessible prices, Armario Comunal is bound to surprise you with unexpected finds.

Hermanos Koumori // This spot is all about sportswear and lifestyle with a fresh, creative edge. Inside, you’ll find standout pieces that go beyond the basics, including exclusive collaborations between Mexican designers and global brands like Adidas. It’s a space that blends urban energy with innovative design, offering athletic wear that feels stylish, authentic, and connected to the city’s fashion scene.

Juárez

1/8 Takamura // Located on Dinamarca Street, this boutique showcases Mexican designer Guillermo Vargas Ayluardo’s bold vision: contemporary, gender-neutral fashion. Known for mixing functionality with experimental aesthetics, his collections play with urban silhouettes and high-quality materials, creating pieces that feel equally wearable and artistic. The shop itself has a minimalist, modern vibe that perfectly frames Takamura’s work, and stepping inside is an experience in its own right.

Caballería // Located on Havre Street, this men’s fashion store focuses on contemporary style with a refined edge. What makes it stand out is its curated selection of brands (most of them Mexican), showcasing the creativity and quality of local design across its three floors. From modern tailoring to more urban, versatile pieces, the shop offers a mix that feels both timeless and fresh.

Lorena Saravia // At this boutique on Marsella Street, one of Mexico’s most celebrated designers brings her contemporary vision to life. Known for her clean silhouettes and refined minimalism, Saravia has built a brand that resonates both locally and internationally. While her collections feature versatile, high-quality pieces, it’s her boots that have become her true signature: sophisticated, timeless, and effortlessly chic. The boutique’s modern, curated atmosphere perfectly reflects her aesthetic.

Casa Denim // A paradise for denim lovers, this shop showcases a carefully curated selection of hard-to-find pieces, including prestigious Japanese selvedge denim from iconic brands like Momotaro, Samurai, and Pure Blue Japan. It also offers sustainable options, like garments made from 100% organic cotton, reinforcing its commitment to quality and environmental responsibility.

Marsella 68 // This is a creative hub where independent brands and fresh design projects come together under one roof. The store’s vibe is casual yet curated, offering everything from urban fashion to unique accessories. Marsella 68 is loved for its focus on emerging talent, giving space to designers who bring new ideas and bold aesthetics to the city´s fashion and design culture. Walking through its racks feels like discovering a new side of style every time.

Polanco

Gramo // Born from a Mexican family with more than a century of experience in optics, Gramo offers a contemporary proposal that blends national design with top-quality Japanese craftsmanship. Each frame is conceived as a collectible piece, inspired by Mexico’s mid‑20th‑century modernism and named after emblematic neighborhoods and landmarks of Mexico City. Gramo’s glasses reflect both cultural heritage and a pursuit of permanence beyond fleeting trends.

Xinú // Founded by Verónica Peña, Héctor Esrawe, and Ignacio Cadena, Xinú has carved out a unique identity in Mexico City’s luxury fragrance landscape by embracing natural ingredients and eco-conscious processes. Each perfume is a sensory journey, blending natural and cultural references into bottles that are as much design objects as they are olfactory experiences. The boutique itself is a modern yet organic space that invites visitors to explore scents with intention and curiosity. By blending sophistication with environmental responsibility, Xinú has become a benchmark for sustainable luxury.

Ikal Store // Mexican and international brands, mostly Latin American, take center stage at this concept store, offering everything from clothing and accessories to carefully curated design objects. What makes Ikal special is its focus on creativity and authenticity. Here, you’ll always find pieces with personality that feel fresh and unique. Ikal is located on Presidente Masaryk, one of the city’s most sophisticated avenues.

Onora Casa // Mexican craftsmanship shines in a contemporary, sustainable setting. The shop collaborates directly with artisan communities to create home décor and lifestyle pieces that feel both authentic and modern. Every object is a story of tradition, creativity, and responsibility. With its warm, curated atmosphere, the store is a must-visit if you’re looking for unique pieces that connect culture with conscious living.

View the map, with every shop pinned, through this link.

And that concludes today’s issue of Mexzine. Want to send us a story idea, suggestion, or introduce yourself? Email us at Brandon@Mexzine.com or Cristina@Mexzine.com.

Past Issues:

There’s something about that back-to-school feeling that stays with us even as adults, and that makes fall such a perfect time for fresh starts. My hope for this new season? To slow down and stop feeling like I’m being chased or chasing after something every single day. Ambitious, I know. But with that spirit, I’m excited to share an interview with Miroslava Castelán, whose family leads a gorgeous boutique hotel tucked in the peaceful cloud forest of Hidalgo. We top it off with a brand of inspiring perfumes and, of course, some equally inspiring cocktails.

And last but not least, we share our very first Mexzine Classifieds, featuring two gorgeous vacation rentals from two of our readers (one overlooks a volcano at 12,100 feet above sea level and the other is a Pacific-fringing casita in Careyes).

Let’s go!

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

Let’s Chat: Miroslava Castelán, General Manager of Agua Morada, a boutique hotel in the heart of the Hidalgo forest​

Just a two-hour drive from Mexico City, among the mountains and forests of Acaxochitlán, Hidalgo, Agua Morada is what many places strive to be, but few actually achieve: a sanctuary in nature. Developed and run by the Castelán family, it is an invitation to slow down and explore Mexico in a different way – far from any trends, top 10 lists, or viral dishes. Cristina Alonso talked to General Manager Miroslava Castelán about the joys and challenges of a family-run boutique hotel, Hidalgo as an underdog destination, and the gift of spending time surrounded by nature.

Cristina: Agua Morada is a family-run project. How did it come to be?

Miroslava: “We are located in a six-hectare complex that was an aguardiente factory during the Revolution called Fábrica La Fe. The owner, Amado Castelán, was married to a French woman, which is why the building has a Colonial style with some European touches. The factory was abandoned, and eventually, my parents purchased it.

My parents are from Hidalgo. They have always loved nature, and at first, they wanted to create a summer camp for kids, which is why some of our guest rooms are treehouses, but they ended up making it a hotel. The pandemic changed things for us. I was in Mexico City working in fashion, and I came to Hidalgo because the project needed a lot of work and love. We started to grow because guests needed to escape; they needed space and nature. I think we all realized that true luxury is green. Today, we have nine accommodations – between treehouses, suites, and houses–, and we are building two more. This lets us really get to know our guests and offer highly personalized service.”

Cristina: What kind of guests make it to Agua Morada?

Miroslava: “We welcome lots of couples and families –and they bring everyone, from grandparents to tiny kids. I think people who come here feel the need to really connect with each other, even if they don’t know how. Even though we have WiFi, when you get here, you really feel a call to disconnect from all of that; spend some time with your family, sip on some café de olla. A beautiful river surrounds the property, and its sound is an invitation to slow down. Sometimes guests arrive anxious; they ask me what there is to do here. And of course, we have a lot of experiences – we have tours, massages, picnics, evenings around the fire pit. But I always answer, “Just do nothing.” You can hang out on a lounge chair, read a book, take a nap on a hammock. That’s probably what you really need.”

Cristina: Tell us about those tours. How can people experience Hidalgo through Agua Morada?

Miroslava: “All of our tours are personalized and can be adapted to our guests’ interests. We offer waterfall tours because we are surrounded by them. We go to a beautiful waterfall called Chimalapa, and then we visit a weaver who uses the traditional backstrap loom technique. Hidalgo embroidery traditions are beautiful, and many people don’t know that tenangos (colorful embroidery that usually represents fantastical creatures) are from here.

We are part of a beautiful community; an indigenous Náhuatl community that has preserved its traditions and customs. They are just 10 minutes away from the hotel, and we take our guests to immerse themselves in that magic –a magical side of Mexico you rarely see in a city.”

Cristina: Even as Mexicans, not a lot of us are aware of how much Hidalgo has to offer.

Miroslava: “Hidalgo is not a very well-known state, but it has so much potential. We are very close to Mexico City, but we get overshadowed by destinations like Valle de Bravo or Tepoztlán, which have, of course, worked very hard to position themselves.”

Cristina: What is it like to run the hotel as a family?

Miroslava: “My oldest sister studied communication, the middle one is an architect, and I’m a designer, so we make a good team. It’s a great blend of skills and creativity. My dad leads the entire operation, and my mom is our greatest inspiration. We face challenges every day, and we all have our own vision, but it’s been going well so far. I know many projects fall apart because of differences between families, but we always try to talk and find a middle ground.”

Cristina: What’s coming up next for Agua Morada?

Miroslava: “Right now I want us to be part of the Tesoros de México program. You have to meet very strict quality standards, so we are working to meet them. We also have our own orchard, and we want to serve more of our own produce. We want to have a seasonal menu at some point. We are designing our own furniture with local artisans and craftspeople, because we love Mexican architecture and design, but mostly because many of these traditions are being lost. The younger generations don’t want to continue the craft because they think there’s no money in it.

What we’re most excited about is Día de Muertos. We’re planning a very special experience.”

Mexzine Classifieds (9/28)

This is our noticeboard of vacation rentals submitted by Mexzine readers and approved by our team. We don't take a commission, and we're not involved in — or responsible for — any booking or stay. Think of it as a noticeboard, not a brokerage: all arrangements are made directly between you and the host. To list your vacation rental, email us at brandon@mexzine.com.

---

Vacation Rental #1: Casa Copilli

Location: San Nicolás de los Ranchos, between CDMX & Puebla:

About: Perched at 12,100 feet with volcano and forest views, this off-grid cabin runs on solar power, has no cell service, and is filled with artisan textiles and pieces sourced from across Mexico — a rare high-alpine escape for anyone ready to disconnect. Your host, Jessica, meets you on arrival to guide you up the final stretch of dirt road and settle you in.

5 guests, 2 bedrooms, 3 beds, 1 bath

Vacation Rental #2: Ocean-View Casita

Location: Careyes, Mexican Pacific Coast

About: Renovated in 2021 and set on one of the Pacific's most unspoiled stretches, this spacious casita sleeps up to six across three air-conditioned bedrooms, with Pacific views, breezes, and sunsets from its covered outdoor lounge and terrace. Inside, there's an air-conditioned living room with a Smart TV, a guest room with a workspace, a fully equipped kitchen, and a covered dining area that seats eight—everything you need to slow down, body and soul.

6 guests, 3 bedrooms, 3 baths

Design We Love: Xinú

From the deserts of Chile to the mountains of Colombia, all the way to the Mexican jungle, Latin America’s visual and olfactory landscapes inspire Xinú, a Mexican fragrance brand envisioned by designers Ignacio Cadena and Héctor Esrawe, and creative director Verónica Peña.

Evocative scents include Vetiverde (with notes of grapefruit, vetiver, and palo santo) and Monstera (with monstera leaves and fruits, and bull horn orchid), complemented with candles, bath amenities, and scented oils paired with volcanic stone diffusers. Xinú fragrances are available online, but it’s the boutiques – located in Mexico City, San Miguel de Allende, Mérida, and Oaxaca – that offer a truly immersive experience. –CA

Bar Spotlight: Handshake Cariño, Mexico City

The team at Mexico City’s Handshake seems to have a bottomless supply of energy and creativity, constantly sprouting new ideas and experiences. The latest is called Cariño, an intimate 12-seat space – also within the NH Hotel – dedicated to Mexico’s unique spirits and flavors.

The logic behind it sounds simple enough: “Handshake is a bar in Mexico, but it’s not really a Mexican bar,” explains Eric, “and we wanted to express our love for the country.” The result, as everything Handshake does, is anything but simple. A six-course cocktail tasting menu where liquids like tepache, charanda, and pox take unexpected shapes and forms. – CA

Where do you want us to feature next? Have a story for us? Shoot an email over to Cristina@Mexzine.com or Brandon@Mexzine.com.

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Past Issues:

Today we’re headed to a city that encapsulates so much of Mexico’s magic. Mérida’s rich history weaves a living Maya heritage, Colonial elegance, Middle Eastern influences – courtesy of an influx of Lebanese migrants who arrived at the end of the nineteenth century – and French-inspired grandeur, best experienced as you walk down its tree-lined Paseo Montejo avenue. Add some of the country's most fascinating culinary traditions and the genuine warmth of its people, and you’ve got a city that will have you wanting to return time and time again.

Be sure to check out our map with all of these places pinned at the bottom.

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

Where to Stay

Casa Lecanda // One of Mérida’s OG boutique jewels, Casa Lecanda occupies a stunning nineteenth-century mansion downtown. Abundant natural light and thoughtful design make every space memorable, from custom wooden furniture in the suites, crafted by local artisans, to an airy patio lined with hammocks, perfect for an afternoon nap. Save an evening in your schedule for wine and charcuterie at the charming Anata Vin Bar. Chat with the team about local experiences like honey tastings and tours to the Uxmal archaeological zone.

Read more

For years I’ve complained about New York winters, dreaming of an escape hatch — somewhere to flock to when snow flurries start tumbling out of the dull, pantsuit-gray New York sky. I’d been fantasizing specifically about spending winters in Mexico for a long time — how dreamy would it be to abscond to my favorite place the moment the Northeastern daylight hours started waning, to easily explore new Pueblos Mágicos and secret beaches only known by locals on long weekends? Mexico has always been a special place for me. It’s a country where I feel like the most idealized version of myself — relaxed, creative, and energized by the beautiful culture and fantastic people. New York can be exhilarating, but it’s draining. As a creative person, Mexico City recharges me. I feel like the Energizer Bunny — I get my best writing done there, my brain feels like it operates on a different frequency, and I feel more in tune with my own body, mind, and soul.

Although this chapter was heavily inspired by my love of Mexican travel, it was also because I wanted to know what it would feel like to luxuriate, to stay a little longer, to stop feeling like a guest on holiday and instead adapt to a slower, more satisfying routine of being in the present moment. I wanted to be able to explore my favorite country in the world and go deeper into a place that has been so incredibly rewarding to spend time in.

It’s also because my husband and I aren’t comfortable keeping all our eggs in the basket of living in America full-time. We gravitated toward Mexico City over a logistically easier place to buy, like Miami, because we wanted to put down roots somewhere that felt safer and more politically aligned with what we believe in. We wanted somewhere we could raise our son part-time in a beautiful new-to-us culture. We also wanted a challenge, because growth comes from stepping outside your comfort zone. We craved growth and learning.

Everyone I’ve encountered through this process has been so warm, so generous with their city. It’s not lost on me that the reverse isn’t true — that the warm welcome we’ve received here isn’t the welcome extended to people trying to move to America right now. I’m fully aware of that tension — Mexicans are warm, full of love and light, and unbelievably empathetic and understanding — the rest of the world (and especially America) could learn a thing or two. I’m filled to the brim with gratitude that this situation is my reality and that we are able to do this as a family.

I braced myself for the buying process to be the hard part, but in many ways, it wasn’t hard at all — it just looked different than what I was used to. It wasn’t the financial aspect that rattled me the most, it was learning an entirely new language of homeownership. As foreigners, we needed a permit just to be allowed to buy at all and we had to submit an application to Mexico’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs. We were required to put down a 10% good-faith deposit the moment our offer was accepted, long before we ever got near closing. In a lot of ways, the process was easier and more streamlined, and in other ways it felt more chaotic. One of the most pleasantly surprising aspects was learning that when you buy a home in Mexico City, it comes with a one-year warranty, compared to the “buyer beware” model we are all used to in the United States — this ended up saving us when our house flooded five times this summer during the rainy season.

From deciding to look at properties to closing, our overall timeline was three months. We got incredibly lucky with our timing. I looked at 15 places and fell in love with the last one I saw. I was the only one to tour the house, we were the only people that submitted an offer, and we ended up getting the house for under asking price because I wrote a letter to the owner explaining how much Mexico City and the house meant to us.

We never came close to walking away, and we never really felt doubt along the way — if anything, every step reaffirmed our decision to make Mexico City a bigger part of our lives. What made it feel the most real and special have been the genuine relationships we built during the search. We bought our home from an extremely talented architect, and over the past six months, we’ve grown very close to him and his wife — partly thanks to my love letter to Mexico City. When we’re in Mexico City, we meet up at Hugo to chat about architecture, design, and life over wine, and when they’re in New York, they visit us in Brooklyn and we catch up over dinner. When our house flooded during the rainy season, he helped us track down where the leak was coming from, covered it under warranty, and even helped us pay the city to clear the street drains when the backup started flowing into our home.

We’ve also become close to our landscaper and just found out he’s also an extremely talented artist, and we can’t wait to support him by hanging his beautiful paintings all over our home. I have built a robust community in Mexico City within five months — it took me years to do the same in New York.

What I’d tell any future buyer:

Plan to budget past the sticker price. Closing costs can run 4 to 8%, and you’re almost entirely responsible as the buyer.

Pay in cash if you can. Financing as a foreigner is possible, but tough.

Find a good realtor that knows the market. If you’re stuck on where to start, I recommend working with an international real estate company—we used Sotheby’s.

Expect a scavenger hunt of paperwork that has nothing to do with the house itself. You’ll have to apostille original birth certificates, facilitate notarized powers of attorney mailed off to get certified, and deal with tax documents translated by a certified translator. None of it is hard, it’s just unfamiliar and inconvenient.

Relationships are everything. This is a process that moves through people: a real estate broker who makes an introduction, a lawyer who picks up the phone, a notary who actually reads every document. Every step of this deal happened for us because someone we trusted recommended and vouched for the next person in line. Don’t be afraid to ask your real estate team for recommendations!

By Bella Darden

Bella’s photos below. To read more of her writing, subscribe to Mindholiday.

And that concludes today’s issue of Mexzine. Want to send us a story idea, suggestion, or introduce yourself? Email us at Brandon@Mexzine.com or Cristina@Mexzine.com.

Mexzine is reader-supported. Consider a paid subscription.

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We’re thrilled to start this week with something special: our first guest contributor. Born in the US, Megan Frye has called Mexico City home for more than a decade, breathing in its beauty and chaos and putting it into words. I worked with Megan a few years back, so I’m especially excited to share her work with all of you. Today, she invites us to discover Mexico’s history, myths, and folklore through the pages that have marked her own journey here. I’m sure you’ll find a reason to hit the bookstore after.

Happy reading!

– Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

A Literary Journey Through Mexico

By Megan Leigh Frye

When I first moved to Mexico City to study history and Spanish at UNAM at the top of 2016 (New Year’s Day to be exact), I was deep in anthropological texts, INAH titles on the ceramics of Teotihuacán, and the architecture of Yaxchilán, a site I visited in 2014 and am still processing. I read back copies of Arqueología Mexicana on the clunky pesero to and from school. It took me a while to add novels. But as I’ve leaned into the complexity of Ciudad de México, I’ve become completely engulfed in la república. Now nearly 11 years later, the words of these texts have formed as much a part of my experience here as chile de árbol and the “se compra” lady’s voice.

I believe you should read a country before you visit it. Not to master it (a fool’s errand), but to honor it, to arrive already involved, already with pages dog-eared reflecting a life you may or may not know. This is by no means an exhaustive list, just the books that found me over the years, in used bookstores in Coyoacán, and from people who were kind enough to hand me something.

Some of you readers would delve into the Spanish version, some would prefer translations. There’s no wrong way to arrive.

Octavio Paz, El Labertino de la Soledad (The Labyrinth of Solitude). 1950 // Everyone starts here, and there’s a reason. It’s polemic as a critique of the culture from a privileged place, assigning a national identity to a very diverse people. Paz writes about Mexican identity like a vulture circling a carrion on a busy highway. Themes of colonialism, masks, fiesta, and death. It’s the foundational text, the one that reframes everything you’ll see in the streets afterward.

Elena Avila, Woman Who Glows in the Dark: A Curandera Reveals Traditional Aztec Secrets of Physical and Spiritual Health. 1999. // Elena Avila was a Chicana author. Avila had a long career as a practicing nurse on the border, and in her own need of healing, connected the wisdom of indigenous practices such as soul retrieval and limpias, expressing the psychosomatic states of envidia and coraje as ways to heal trauma and build connectedness.

Elena Poniatowska, Luz y Luna, Las Lunitas. (Light, Moon and the Little Moons). 1994 // The photographs by beloved Mexican photographer Graciela Iturbide do half the talking here, as Poniatowska chronicles the lives of Indigenous women in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec with a tenderness that walks hand in hand with respect.

Leonora Carrington, The Hearing Trumpet. 1974. // British by birth, an exiled artist who found refuge here alongside European surrealists, Mexico absorbed Leonora Carrington, who became one of its own. This novel features an old woman, a strange convent, a wild conspiracy, and is as entrancing and delightful as her paintings. If you ever get to San Luis Potosí, her museum is worth an afternoon.

Homero Aridjis, Carne de Dios. (Meat of God). 2015. // A fictionalized life of legendary healer María Sabina, tangled up with the Beatles and the Beat generation chasing mushrooms and meaning into mid-20th century Oaxaca. Aridjis creates a hallucinatory bridge between worlds: the moment outsiders come looking for meaning, and Mexico lets them in without ever fully belonging to them. It makes me think of Burroughs, who came here to escape one thing and found another reason to flee, but nowhere to go. Mexico has always been where outsiders go to get undone.

John Womack Jr., Zapata and the Mexican Revolution. 1969 // Womack was an American, but this is one of the finest things written on Zapata and the Revolution. It reads with the pace of a novel while holding up under real scholarly scrutiny. Zapata here is presented as a man, not a myth, and Mexico as a universe, not a postcard or a tabloid.

Dahlia de la Cerda, Perras de Reserva. (Reservoir Bitches). 2022 // De la Cerda’s interconnected stories follow women navigating violence and power with sharp, unafraid prose. A young writer from Aguascalientes, her worlds are as real as they are underrepresented.

Fernanda Melchor, Temporada de Huracanes. (Hurricane Season). 2017. // Melchor’s relentless sentences circle a murder in a small Veracruz town, described down to its mycelium, unblinking at rural misogyny while never losing poetic control.

Yuri Herrera, Señales que precederán al fin del mundo. (Signs Preceding the End of the World). 2009. // It follows a young woman crossing from Mexico into the United States to find her brother and deliver a message from their mother, a journey that becomes a nearly mythological descent through a world of smugglers and shifting selves. Herrera invents language the way his characters invent themselves at the borders.

I can also recommend Chilean author Roberto Bolaño’s “The Savage Detectives,” Lydiette Carrión’s “La Fosa de Agua,” and British novelist Malcom Lowry’s “Under the Volcano,” as well as Isabela Zapata’s reverent poetry collection, “Una ballena es un país” Rosario Castellanos’ “Balún Canán,” and “Fruto,” Daniela Rea’s exploration on modern caregiving. Among these pages, you’ll find a solid entrance into comprehending such a complex country.

Now I’d love to hear some of your recommendations! What are your favorite reads by Mexican authors or about Mexico?

Leave a comment

*Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México

**Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia

And that concludes today’s issue of Mexzine. Want to send us a story idea, suggestion, or introduce yourself? Email us at Brandon@Mexzine.com or Cristina@Mexzine.com.

Mexzine is reader-supported. Consider a paid subscription.

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It’s no secret that we’re obsessed with food and drink here at Mexzine. Fine dining, fancy cocktails, street snacks, creative menus – you name it, we’ll try it. And candy is definitely part of the equation. From traditional mercados to corner stores to airport souvenir shops, Mexican sweets are a small and delightful expression of our traditions and, like many other elements of our culture, they range from traditional to inventive to sometimes a bit weird. Join us as we explore a few favorites.

- Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

Cocadas // Made with grated coconut, sugar, cinnamon, and milk, these patties are believed to hail from Spain, making their way to Mexico and other Spanish colonies during the conquest. These days, cocadas come in different shapes and forms: some are made with fresh coconut, others are baked for a crispier texture, and others use egg yolk, giving them a bright yellow hue.

Tortitas de Santa Clara // These treats are, just on their own, reason enough to visit Puebla. Created by the nuns at the Santa Clara convent, these crunchy cookies are filled with a sweet pumpkin seed glaze that is famously hard to make, as each seed has to be peeled beforehand. While it’s easy to find the tortitas in Mexico City and other cities, there’s nothing like going straight to the source: Puebla’s Calle de los Dulces, a street lined with traditional candy shops.

Glorias // Born in Linares, Nuevo León, these soft delights are pure comfort and indulgence – and they were my grandpa’s favorites. According to legend, local candymaker Natalia Medina created these sweets and got rave reviews from anyone who tried them. The verdict: they tasted like glory. Available with or without pecans and wrapped in iconic red, they do, in fact, live up to their name.

Duvalín // A tiny to-go pudding, Duvalín is a creamy combo of vanilla, strawberry, and hazelnut spreads that some believe was inspired by Neapolitan ice cream. Sold with its own miniature spoon, it also comes in vanilla-hazelnut or vanilla-strawberry versions. Ingrained in most Mexicans’ memories is its jingle: “A Duvalín no lo cambio por nada!”

Obleas con Cajeta // At first sight, these wafers may remind you of church –and with good reason. These airy crackers emerged in European convents as consecrated wafers, and made their way to Mexico during the Spanish conquest. Eventually, locals began to experiment with different fillings, with cajeta (or dulce de leche) becoming an instant favorite. Crispy on the outside, gooey on the inside, their appeal remains timeless.

Mazapán // In its most traditional form, mazapán was created in Toledo, Spain –a sweet, dense concoction made with almond paste and sugar. Mexicans adopted the recipe and tweaked it, adding ingredients like peanuts and pumpkin seeds. Its claim to fame, though, came in the fifties, when Guadalajara-born Elvira Velasco and Jesús Michel opened a candy store called Conitas, where they started selling a peanut version. This beloved mazapán was eventually branded as De La Rosa, a veritable icon of Mexican candy: irresistibly crumbly and tasty

Paletas Vero // Is there anything better than a piece of candy modeled after another food item? The answer is no, and the proof is in Vero’s themed lollipops, which have remained legendary over the years, as delicious as they are just plain fun. Choose between the chili-covered Mango or Elote, or perhaps a sweet-and-fizzy Tarrito, shaped like a beer mug. My favorite, though, is Manita de la Suerte, a palm-shaped lolly with your fortune written on it

Conejitos Turín // Created by Mexican chocolate brand Turín, founded in 1928 by Italian chocolatier Pablo Traverso, these bunnies emerged from the time -honored tradition of eating chocolate bunnies around Easter, but have become a timeless icon. Ubiquitous in corner shops, grocery stores, and Turín boutiques in Mexico, these cuties have become celebrities in their own right over the past few years, with viral Conejito cakes, cupcakes, and even cocktails sprouting all over Mexico (and Instagram).

Mamut // A thick, soft marshmallow pressed between two vanilla cookies and covered in chocolate, this treat may be a distant, store-bought cousin of the s’more, or perhaps even a low-brow version of the Argentinian alfajor. Whatever the inspiration, it’s been a beloved sweet for generations. Pro hack: stick it in the freezer a couple of hours before eating it.

Pulparindo // Produced by De La Rosa, the same company that gave us the incomparable mazapán, these thin strips are made of tamarind pulp, powdered chili, and sugar – a perfect balance between sweet and tangy. Over the years, Pulparindo has evolved to several formats, including watermelon-flavored dots and mango dip

Paleta Payaso // Born in the seventies, Paleta Payaso’s first iteration was a chocolate-covered cornflake ball with three red gummies forming a face, with the marshmallow replacing the cornflakes shortly after its launch. The blue eyes came around 15 years later, and the format has pretty much remained unchanged ever since, save for the occasional holiday version, like the white chocolate Christmas paleta

Xile.Chile // Started by a duo of friends who sold snacks to their high school friends, this brand offers an assortment of sour gummies covered in powdered chili – think apple-strawberry strips, bears, and worms, each as delicious and addictive as the next. On the pricier side and available only online or at a handful of vending machines in Querétaro and México City, getting your hands on one of these treats still feels like a feat – and totally worth it.

And that concludes today’s issue of Mexzine. Want to send us a story idea, suggestion, or introduce yourself? Email us at Brandon@Mexzine.com or Cristina@Mexzine.com.

Mexzine is reader-supported. Consider a paid subscription.

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Past articles:

I’m on assignment in Zihuatanejo, reviewing the Hotelito at MUSA, a 13-key boutique stay on an unspoiled stretch of tropical beach. While feed-grabbing Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas might dominate your algorithm thanks to their popularity among North American travelers, it would be remiss not to consider a trip to this less-crowded, long-lettered tropical paradise fringing the Pacific. If flight connectivity from the States and Canada is your biggest worry, have no fear: a clutch of major cities - from Los Angeles to Calgary - offer nonstops.

Farther north, Cristina takes over with two glass houses outside San Miguel de Allende that architects keep visiting, then ends the edit at a tea ceremony in a Cabo hotel.

Enjoy.

- Brandon Berkson, Founder of Mexzine, Hotel Espresso, and Hotels Above Par

Zihuatanejo’s Most Thoughtful Hotel Is Building Community

The 40-minute drive from the airport to MUSA is verdant: slender palms dance in the wind and wild shrubbery brushes against the truck’s right side. The bucolic landscape occasionally opens to the ocean when you look west, while fertile mountains dominate the east. An offshoot dirt road leads to the hotel. Covering Mexico’s boutique hotel scene extensively teaches you that some of the best ones sit at the end of unseemly entrances.

Upon arrival, I climbed the floating stairs to the lobby, where high ceilings and contemporary art adorn the walls. The whole building is washed in grey.

I’m staying in the upper-level penthouse, which comes with a private plunge pool plus a view of jungle and sea. I’ve spent swaths of time hunkered down with my laptop at the indoor-outdoor restaurant, Alba. I don’t know what tantalized me more: the beach right in front of me or the octopus tacos I ordered every day for lunch. The whole place sports low-slung tropical modernism - cantilevered roofs, rubble stone, and a lap pool that doubles as the courtyard.

MUSA recently joined Namron Hospitality, and I toured the grounds with one of its owners, Tara. Her passion for the 250-plus acres is palpable, but what struck me more was her ambition for them: a regenerative farm stay, community incubators, a salt-infused spa fed by the onsite saltwater lagoon, and private residences blueprinted by Andrés Saavedra Design, the firm whose hand is visible across the entire property. None of it is vanity. She and her business partner are building with the surrounding locale and its people in mind - and it shows in every decision they’ve made so far.

Other highlights from the stay included a beekeeping session, a massage that ranks among the best I've received in a long time, and an off-site sea turtle release. In case I wasn't clear enough, this place is magic - so if you're keen to explore destinations beyond the obvious ones when you travel to Mexico, consider MUSA, just outside of Zihuatanejo. -BB

Casa Files: Casa Etérea, San Miguel de Allende

Captivated by San Miguel’s creative energy, Singapore-born Prashant Ashoka found a remote, extinct volcano to bring his vision to life: Casa Etérea, a mirrored home that reflects and magnifies the beauty around it – the vegetation, the sunset, the starry sky. Inside, locally crafted furniture and details like Chinese woven baskets, antiques from Mexico City’s La Lagunilla market, and an iconic copper tub made in Santa Clara del Cobre bring each corner to life, yet it’s the nearly permanent immersion in nature that will stay with you forever. You can book Casa Etérea through its website. There is now a second house on the property – stay tuned for our next Casa Files. – CA

Mezxine Moments: Baja Tea Ceremony at Grand Velas Boutique Los Cabos

Tea ceremonies are not especially common among Mexican resort offerings – we’re much more likely to encounter agave or coffee tastings. But tea has found a home at Grand Velas Boutique Los Cabos, with a relaxing session held at Terraza Estrella. The Baja Tea Ceremony kicks off with a calming welcome ritual, held to the rhythm of a quantum drum, that envelops you with the scent of copal, white sage, and rosemary. The tasting features three herbal infusions, representing earth, wind, and sea, prepared with healing ingredients like chamomile, desert lavender, and damiana, a native shrub known for its stress-relieving – and supposed aphrodisiac – properties. Wrap up with your own personalized tea blend to take home. –CA

Where should we go next? If you have a place, a person, or a story we should know about, write to cristina@mexzine.com or brandon@mexzine.com. We read everything.

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Here’s a thing we keep noticing. A reader emails to say she’s leaving her apartment in Condesa for October and does anyone want it. Another writes asking whether we know a casita near Mérida that isn’t on the usual sites. A hotel we like has six empty rooms in a slow week and no way to tell the people who’d fill them.

The answer to all three is the same, and it’s the back page of every magazine that ever mattered: classifieds.

So we’re building one. Places to stay, between Mexzine readers—sublets, casitas, holiday rentals, hotel rates, and, long stays. Around forty words a listing. One photo. Approved by us before it runs. If it isn’t somewhere we’d want to photograph or write about, it doesn’t go in.

To note, you must be a free or paid Mexzine subscriber to participate..

We need you to test it

Before we build the full thing, we want to know if you’ll use it. So for the next few weeks, posting is free—for every subscriber, paid or not—and we’ll run the best of what comes in right here on Sundays.

Have a place? A furnished apartment you’re leaving for a month. A casita you’d rather fill directly. A hotel with a rate you want in front of the right people. A house in Oaxaca?

→ Post a place here

Want a place? Tell us the city, the dates, the budget, and one line about who you are. We’ll run it and put you in touch with whoever writes back.

→ Look for a place here

And if there's another section you'd want—houses for sale, hotel and rental investments, something we haven't thought of—write to me at brandon@mexzine.com and say what you'd post or hope to find.

How it works

You post. We read it, edit it lightly, and if it fits, it runs. Readers reply through us; we make the introduction; the rest is between you. We don’t take a cut, hold a deposit, or handle a payment. Homes appear at neighborhood level only—we’ll never publish an address.

It’s a noticeboard, not a brokerage. The old kind. The kind with a person reading every card before it goes on the wall.

What’s in it for you

Right now: a free listing in front of several thousand people who travel to Mexico the way you do, and the chance to find a place from someone who does too.

Later, if this works, it becomes a members’ section—listings go to paid subscribers first, and by the time the free edition sees them, the good ones will be gone. Which is a reason to post now, and a reason to be a member then.

What we’d like from you this week

Post something, even if it’s small. A wanted post takes two minutes. A listing takes five. If you know someone with a place—a friend in San Miguel, a cousin with a casita in La Paz—forward this to them. The board is only as good as what’s on it, and the first week decides whether there’s a second.

We’ll report back in a few Sundays with what came in, what ran, and what happened next.

One thing to know: this is a noticeboard, not a brokerage. We make the introduction; what happens after is between you and the guest. We don't handle payments or hold deposits. Homes appear at neighborhood level only—we never publish an address. Posting is free during the trial.

—Brandon Berkson

The first listings run Sunday, September 20. Post by Thursday to make it.

Places to stay is where we're starting, not where this ends. If there's a section you'd read—houses for sale, hotel and rental investments, design objects, a fixer in Oaxaca who knows the mezcal roads—tell us. Email brandon@mexzine.com and say what you'd post, or what you'd hope to find. We're building the board for the people who'll use it, so they should tell us what goes on it.

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If you follow international bar lists and awards, such as Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards and 50 Best Bars, you may have noticed that, each year, more and more Mexican bars are getting much-deserved recognition. While traditional Mexican spirits have been around for centuries, our bar scene is definitely going through a golden era, marked by creativity, inspiration, and great pride for the craft. Today, we embark on a cocktail-fueled tour of my hometown, with a healthy mix of legendary spots, like the pioneering Limantour, all the way to recent openings, like Mauro and Despacho Margarita, that have quickly become favorites.

¡Salud!

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

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Bar Mauro // At this Roma Norte bar, brothers Eduardo and Ricardo Nava pay tribute to their grandfather Mauro, a master of the art of aperitivo and hospitality. Original creations like the Maurito (mezcal, Lillet Blanc, sherry, and guava) are as excellent as the house version of the classics, like the Negroni 1929, made with Condesa Gin Xoconostle, cacao-infused Campari, vermouth rosso, and strawberry water. Italian-inspired bites –try the mortadella focaccia – and welcoming vibes make it hard to stay away from Mauro.

Tlecan // There’s something mystical about stepping into this mezcal bar: the low lighting, the scent of copal in the air, the spotty phone service. Little-known it is not – it’s currently #23 in The World’s 50 Best Bars and #5 in the North America list– but it definitely is a place for discovery. Here, artisanal agave spirits reign supreme, with each liquid on the menu featuring its producer’s name and its place of origin. The cocktails are equally exciting: try the Tascalate Sour (Chiapas tascalate, fermented cacao, lemon juice, and mezcal) or the Martini Papantla (mezcal and vanilla-infused dry vermouth).

Licorería Limantour // Before there was (almost) anything else, there was Limantour. 15 years ago, in a still-developing Roma Norte, this bar invited us Mexico City dwellers to explore beyond the world of bottle service and Cubas (or rum-and-coke, if you will) in favor of expertly crafted cocktails, like the iconic Mr. Pink and Margarita al Pastor. Over the years, Limantour has welcomed countless guest bartenders from across the world, formed generations of new talent, and remains as fun as ever.

Handshake Speakeasy // A constant presence on international bar lists, and one of the toughest reservations in town – book well in advance! — this Juárez speakeasy blends gilded Prohibition era decor with deceivingly simple cocktails that hide complex, culinary-inspired techniques. The beloved Piña Colada, for example, is a light, clarified version that brings the taste of the tropics to the heart of the city. The real secret, however, is the staff’s thoughtful hospitality and versatility, with team members rotating roles every week.

Baltra // Inspired by Darwin’s journeys across the Galápagos, this cozy Condesa Bar, decked in taxidermy and maps, is no stranger to awards and accolades, yet has maintained its laid-back neighborhood feel for more than a decade. With evolution as its mission, its inspired menus change seasonally. A recent iteration, for example, draws on tea, with oolong and green tea bases resulting in unexpected concoctions. The bar’s stars, however, may just be its martinis, poured at a budget-friendly $100 pesos every Tuesday night, aptly known as Martes de Martini

Café de Nadie // Part listening bar, part coffee shop, part cocktail bar, this laid-back spot, tucked within Roma Norte’s Pasaje Parián, is a good idea at any time of day. Envisioned by a group of music-obsessed friends and their 10,000-plus record collection, the bar is helmed by a talented female trio – Mapo Molano, Jimena López, and Carmen Huizapol – with a strong focus on fresh ingredients sourced from the Xochimilco chinampas. Try seasonal creations like the Loco Poco a Poco (Bacardí Blanco, banana shrub, white port, and prosecco) or the Perfect Martini, served with pickled vegetables.

Librería Valladolid // For those of us who love books as much as we love strong cocktails, this enchanting speakeasy in Roma Norte brings together the best of both worlds. Books line the walls and even the stairs as you step into the space, where dim lighting and reasonably-played music – thank God – create an unbeatable setting for a date or a night out with a small group of friends. Classics rule the menu here, with timeless creations like a Hanky Panky, a Batanga, or a Paloma that pair beautifully with snacks like tinned fish and salty chips

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As August comes to a close, some of us – or myself, at least – feel the need to slow down for a second and take a breath or two before the hectic pace of the end of the year takes over. It’s in that spirit that we present this lovely talk with Laura Villalobos, General Manager at Etéreo, Auberge Collection, about the resort’s mindful approach to spiritually infused activities. Rounding up this week’s adventures: a favorite market for food lovers in Mexico City and a cleverly chic clothing line.

Thanks for joining us!

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

Let’s Chat: Authentic Spiritual Experiences with Laura Villalobos of Etéreo, Auberge Collection

Some places exude a special kind of magic. Etéreo, Auberge Collection is one of them. Floating above a mangrove in the Riviera Maya, its natural beauty creates the perfect setting for embarking on a bit of soul-searching – even if you weren’t planning on it. On the program, experiences like Shamanic Sound Journey, Mayan Calendar Reading, and Spiritual Jewelry Design offer a peek into the region’s spiritual heritage and, if you’re open to it, into your inner world. Cristina Alonso chatted with General Manager Laura Villalobos about the challenge and responsibility of designing these experiences with care and respect.

Cristina: The Riviera Maya is one of the most culturally and spiritually rich regions in Mexico. How does the team at Etéreo draw from these traditions to create unique experiences, and ensure they remain authentic and respectful to local culture?

Laura: “We were very fortunate, because Etéreo was conceived this way from the very beginning. The architecture draws from the region, and the hotel was built on elevated platforms to respect the mangrove reserve surrounding us. The name, the symbolism, and many elements of the original design were inspired by Mayan numerology and cosmovision. The culture of this place is part of our everyday environment and, importantly, part of the lives of many of the people who work here. We have team members from local communities, some who speak Mayan, and we rely on them and on local experts to make sure that what we create feels thoughtful and respectful.

That makes the creative process quite natural. Our spa is beautiful, but its magic goes far beyond the facility itself. It’s in the rituals and the moments of connection around it. Our arrival ceremony, performed by our cultural ambassador and resident shaman, is meant to create a moment to open your heart and mind and become present in this place. Mayan calendar readings are led by specialists we partner with rather than being interpreted by someone just because they work at a luxury hotel.”

Cristina: How do you choose the experts and practitioners for each experience?

Laura: “Expertise obviously matters, but it isn’t enough on its own. Our Experience team, Spa Director, and spiritual team look for people with real depth of knowledge who can also read a guest. That is incredibly important, because these experiences can become very personal. A practitioner needs to understand the intention of the experience while also recognizing that every guest arrives with a different level of curiosity, comfort, and openness.

When we bring in an astrologer or another outside practitioner, we look at their knowledge, their connection to ancient traditions, and how they communicate. Many of the experiences are actually led by our own team. What connects them is not that they all practice exactly the same thing, but that they understand the Mayan cosmovision, the energy of this place, and, most importantly, genuinely respect the person experiencing it.”

Cristina: What do you think draws guests to these experiences, particularly at Etéreo?

Laura: “I think every person travels with an intention, whether they articulate it or not. Sometimes you want to celebrate. Sometimes you need to rest. Sometimes you want to reconnect with someone, or with yourself. And sometimes you just want to be surprised! At Etéreo, I think guests are drawn to experiences they don’t completely understand yet. There is curiosity there.

From the moment you arrive and hear the conch shell followed by the welcome ceremony, something shifts. It sets a tone for the stay. Etéreo has this strange way of making people a little more open and vulnerable than perhaps they expected. I remember one guest who was grieving and began talking with our shaman. That conversation became a completely personal ceremony at sunset. They made kites from natural materials and released them together while copal burned beside them. Nobody designed that experience in advance. It came from listening to what that person needed in that particular moment.”

Cristina: Have you ever found that some guests are a bit resistant to certain experiences that take them out of their comfort zone?

Laura: “Absolutely, and I think that is important to respect. We welcome people from many countries, religions, cultures, and backgrounds, and spirituality means something completely different to each person. Not everyone wants to participate in a cleansing ceremony with copal and herbs, and they shouldn’t feel they have to. Our role isn’t to convince anyone. It is simply to open a door.

Someone might not feel comfortable participating in a ceremony, but they might happily sit with our team and create a piece of spiritual jewelry using stones connected to their birth date. Someone else might become incredibly curious and want to go much deeper. There are different ways of connecting with a place. What matters is that whatever a guest chooses feels genuine to them.”

Cristina: Can you share a special story of a moment you’ve shared with a guest during or after one of these experiences?

Laura: “There are so many. A moment I love happened with a guest who was studying classical music at a conservatory in Switzerland. She was traveling with her family and needed to practice her violin every day, so we found a private room in the hotel where she could play.

During her stay, she would often pass through our arrival area, where our shaman spends time welcoming guests. The two of them became friends. One day she asked him whether he played an instrument. He had a handmade flute made from local wood and began playing for her. She listened for a while and then basically said, “Follow me,” picked up her violin and started playing. Suddenly, these two people from completely different worlds were standing in the middle of our lobby, playing music together.”

Mercado Dive: Mercado San Juan in Mexico City

Go against popular wisdom and shop hungry at this downtown market, lined with stall after stall of edible marvels. Bright fruit and vegetables and freshly caught fish and seafood are just the beginning – San Juan will bring you face -to-face with insects of all sizes, and exotic meats like armadillo and buffalo. The crowning moment: sitting down for lunch. Mexzine-vetted spots include Las Tapas de San Juan (formerly La Jersey), serving wonderful baguettes filled with Spanish cold cuts and cheeses, and the seafood-centric Cabo San Juan. Finish with a strong cup of coffee from Triana Café. –CA

Design We Love: Ottea

Beautifully modern yet thoroughly timeless, Ottea draws inspiration from Mexican craftsmanship in each of its pieces – pants, jumpsuits, and shirts in solid, classic hues that can easily transition from day to night with the help of a quick shoe or accessory change. Versatility doesn’t stop there: founder Constanza Lara’s designs are brilliantly adaptable, ensuring each garment can be styled and adjusted throughout different stages of life. Responsibly sourced textiles – many of them developed through closed-loop processes – enhance the brand’s commitment to sustainability and long-lasting design. –CA

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Where do you want us to feature next? Have a story for us? Shoot an email over to Cristina@Mexzine.com or Brandon@Mexzine.com.

I always find the terms “overrated” and “underrated” a little subjective. After all, destinations, restaurants, and experiences are always subject to personal taste and interpretation. When it comes to Puebla, though, I feel pretty comfortable calling it one of Mexico’s most underrated destinations. Hear me out: Puebla isn't little-known or undiscovered. Most of us know about its rich historic heritage and spectacular culinary offerings, among the country’s most prized. Yet for some reason, lots of travelers – both domestic and foreign – tend to skip Puebla on their itineraries, and I think that’s a mistake. Only a couple of hours by car from Mexico City, it’s the perfect weekend getaway or trip extension –one that will definitely enrich your Mexico travels.

Let’s go!

–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor

Where to Stay​

CasaReyna // The walls of this storied construction pay tribute to Puebla’s living history, with remains of what was once a group of sixteenth-century homes intertwining with modern touches and details in the state’s iconic talavera pottery, as envisioned by architect Ricardo Legorreta, artist Esteban Chapital, and businesswoman Angélica Moreno. Resting in one of its 46 spacious rooms and suites means you are mere feet away from its intimate spa, Talavera de la Reina boutique, and best of all, its excellent restaurant. Highly recommended: the Mole Tasting Platter, featuring pork and chicken bathed in four regional moles.

​Cartesiano // A series of restored sixteenth- and seventeenth-century casonas, Cartesiano highlights the city’s rich history while placing you firmly in the present with contemporary furnishings and amenities. Beyond the beautiful architecture and design, it’s the hotel’s focus on wellness that sets it apart, with complimentary activities – think hatha yoga or sound healing sessions – every morning included in your stay, and an expansive spa featuring a full hydrotherapy circuit and a healing garden. The lovely restaurant, Custodia, awaits with regional specialties and a very photogenic bar.

La Purificadora // Past meets present in this iconic boutique hotel, placed in what was once the water purifying plant that gives it its name, and reimagined by Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta. Nineteenth-century stone walls bring character to its sleek rooms and suites, offering spacious bathrooms, a working desk, and views of the Church of San Francisco’s gardens next door. On the ground floor, the restaurant blends traditional Puebla cuisine with inventive touches, while the patio features cozy fire pits, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring the city.​

Casona de los Sapos // Housed in a seventeenth-century mansion, this boutique hotel is infused with Puebla’s rich history and timeless charm. After a day of sightseeing, there’s no better plan than unwinding at its indoor pool before retreating to one of its 19 suites, outfitted in classic furnishings and bathed in sunlight – plus L’Occitane bath amenities. Local cuisine shines as well, be it at its beloved restaurant or at La Francesita, a bakery that honors the city’s French influence, one fluffy pastry at a time.

Where to Eat

Augurio // Shaped by the memories of his father’s eatery, Chef Ángel Vázquez has created a warm, welcoming temple of Puebla cuisine, blending tradition and evolution in creations like duck tamal with mole poblano, Atlixco cecina (salted beef) tacos, and roasted cauliflower in white mole. Harmonious pairings come courtesy of sommelier Gina De La Mora, whose selection explores labels from Mexico, California, and Spain. Monthly Taco Tuesdays bring inventive creations by guest chefs and ice-cold beer.

Moyuelo // With a Mexican soul and adventurous spirit, Chef Fernando Hernández’s kitchen presents an elegantly inventive counterpart to the city’s deeply rooted culinary traditions. International inspiration, particularly from Asia, shines in visually stunning creations like pork belly baos with salsa macha and crab gringa with katsuobushi-jalapeño sauce. The liquid selection is equally excellent, with small-batch wines and cocktails like the Negroni de Pasita, featuring the city’s iconic pasita liqueur, made with raisins.

El Mural de los Poblanos // A veritable Puebla institution, El Mural de los Poblanos has been serving traditional local fare for nearly two decades. Housed in a seventeenth-century mansion, its colorful murals depict famous Puebla natives, giving the restaurant its name. Timeless favorites like fideo seco, chalupas, and mole poblano grace the menu, but perhaps the star arrives only once a year, between July and September: chile en nogada, an iconic dish of roasted poblano peppers stuffed with minced meat and local fruit, and bathed in walnut sauce. With more than 200 Mexican labels on the list, it’s a dream for exploring the world of Mexican wines.

Cemitas Lupita // Placed inside Mercado de la Diagonal, this no-frills spot has been doling out some of the best cemitas in town since 1984. Pure comfort, these sandwiches start with cemitas (a soft sesame-topped roll) and feature an array of fillings, including beef milanesa, sausage, ham, and spicy meat. Avocado, mountains of cheese, and a touch of aromatic pápalo leaf crown each bite.

Where to Drink

La Pasita // This tiny cantina was founded in 1916 by Emilio Contreras, creator of Puebla’s beloved pasita liqueur, a sweet raisin-based concoction, and remains packed with eclectic memorabilia and lore. According to legend, bartenders back in the day used to pour pasita suited to the number of blocks patrons could drink without passing out. Today, the family still runs the bar and keeps tradition alive, pouring shot glasses of pasita garnished with a cube of goat cheese and a raisin, plus imaginative cocktails like the China Poblana, with mint liqueur, hibiscus, egg, and blackberry.

Miel de Agave // Led by proudly Puebla-born Chef Liz Galicia, this laid-back downtown joint is a shrine to the state’s extraordinary mezcal and culinary traditions. Grab a seat at the beautiful bar, lined with dozens of intriguing labels, ranging from local mezcal to Oaxacan rum. Sip these wonders neat or in inventive cocktails like the Romántico (whisky, vermouth, berries) paired with excellent bites, such as chapulín-topped guacamole, cecina ceviche, and shrimp chicharrón. If you want to explore a bit further, book a guided tasting and let the expert team lead the way.

Caléndula // Nature inspires every element of the liquid experience at this lovely downtown bar, with a seasonally rotating menu that features creations like the Brazica (mezcal, kale, and cucumber) and the Pink Bitter (Campari, pineapple, lemon, and egg white). Timeless sips like Negronis and dirty martinis are equally tempting, as is the pulque, an ancestral Mexican beverage made of fermented sap of the agave plant. Dimly lit and beautifully styled, the space sets the mood for an evening of strong drinks and good conversation.

Where to Explore

Museo Amparo // Breathe in history at every turn at this beautiful Centro Histórico museum. Its home, a sixteenth-century building, was brought to the twenty-first century by renowned Mexican architecture studio TEN, and holds an impressive collection that takes you on a true journey across time. Start with El México Antiguo, one of the largest collections of pre-Hispanic art by a private institution, before diving into viceregal treasures, all the way to contemporary work by national artists like Graciela Iturbide and Manuel Felguérez.

Cholula // Only a 30-minute drive from downtown Puebla, this picturesque town is packed with historic wonders and youthful energy, courtesy of the students at Universidad de las Américas. Stroll around town and admire the Baroque beauty of the Templo de San Francisco Acatepec, and climb up to the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, built in the sixteenth century atop the Cholula Pyramid and offering postcard-worthy views of Popocatépetl. After getting your dose of culture, grab a drink at Licorería San Pedrito.

Talavera Uriarte // Thanks to its intricate designs and glossy enamel, talavera pottery has become a symbol of Puebla craftsmanship. A tour of Talavera Uriarte grants you front-row access to the production process, unchanged since the workshop opened in 1824. From classic dishware and vases to modern tiles, every piece confirms Uriarte’s living legacy – one of the first workshops to be certified under regulations that grant Appellation of Origin. If you’re feeling creative, upgrade your tour with a painting session and personalize your own piece (a great idea if you’re traveling with kids).

Museo Internacional del Barroco // Puebla’s immense Baroque heritage found a modern home in 2016, when this striking building by Pritzker-awarded architect Toyo Ito opened its doors to the public. As the first museum in the world solely focused on Baroque art, every gallery is an invitation to its many expressions, from sculpture and architecture to music and cuisine. Multimedia and interactive exhibitions make navigation very user-friendly. Crown your visit with lunch at Conventual, a restaurant serving traditional cocina poblana.

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