Destination Guide: Guadalajara
Where to stay, eat, drink, and visit in Mexico's second-largest city.
Hola, Mexziners!
I said it a few newsletters ago, and I’ll say it again: I’ve got Guadalajara on my mind lately. And how can I not? It’s the birthplace of quintessential elements of Mexican culture, like mariachi music and tequila, and at the same time, a place buzzing with creative energy. Restaurants, coffee shops, art galleries, tech startups… the city is pure inspiration and innovation. With that in mind, we’ve put together a guide to just a few of our favorite Tapatío spots – served with the promise of more to come.
And as always with our destination guides, you can find a map with all the locations here.
Vámonos!
–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor
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Where to Stay
Casa Habita // A Grupo Habita icon, Casa Habita has been one of Colonia Lafayette’s hippest neighbors for more than a decade. Under the creative vision of Milan-based Dimore Studio, the property comprises a house from the forties and a contemporary building, resulting in spaces that are charmingly vintage yet decidedly modern. The restaurant is especially gorgeous, with its green-and-gold hues and retro bar. The equally stylish guest rooms and suites feature floor-to-ceiling windows that invite in plenty of natural light.
Bellwort Hotel // Concrete, leather, and thoughtful touches of art make every corner of this adult-only hotel irresistibly photogenic –a sexy, industrial escape in the leafy Colonia Lafayette. Sleek decor and generous spaces await across its suites, some of which feature balconies with lovely views of the neighborhood. Catch some rays by the outdoor pool – a blessing during those hot Jalisco springs and summers – and make sure to check out Erizo de Mar, the excellent seafood restaurant next door.
Casa Bosque Eduviges // A treat for architecture lovers, this enchanting Colonia Americana retreat seamlessly blends past and present. With a restored early twentieth-century mansion as its centerpiece, a testament to the era’s French-inspired style, architects Sergio Ortiz and Juan Antonio Ángel Ramírez incorporated a modern building, creating a lovely dialogue between eras. Rest in welcoming rooms with warm wood-and-textile details, and start each day with a cup of coffee in the tranquil gardens before heading out to explore.
Where to Eat
Alcalde // Seasonality sets the tone at this iconic eatery, led by Guadalajara-born (and equally iconic) Chef Paco Ruano, whose stints in legendary European kitchens influenced his passion for fresh ingredients and precise technique. Products like mushrooms and herbs make each step of the 10-course tasting menu a delightful surprise – you might get to taste an aguachile beef tartare, duck with mole, or mushroom flan. But perhaps the best surprise is the relaxed, lively atmosphere, bringing a much-welcome breath of fresh air to the fine dining experience.
PalReal // There’s always a good excuse to visit this laid-back eatery in Colonia Americana. Mornings bring strong coffee (brewed with Mexican beans) and eggs bathed in mole, while dishes like tomato tartare and a fabulous milanesa, paired with a solid selection of natural wines, await for lunch and dinner. My favorite moment, though, is the early evening: I love grabbing a seat in the leafy terrace, ordering the excellent Negroni, and just soaking in the Tapatío vibes.
Xokol // A mystical cave-like space; a long, communal table, and colorful cobs of corn hanging from the ceiling – Xokol is a treat for the senses from the moment you walk in. Under the leadership of chefs Óscar Segundo and Xrysw Ruelas Díaz, every bite at Xokol is a tribute to corn, expressed through a weekly-rotating menu packed with imagination and a touch of whimsy. Available as a tasting menu or à la carte, the selection may include creations like cauliflower with Otomí almond mole or octopus with fermented milk. The impressive wine list and original cocktail selection make pairing incredibly fun.
Tortas Ahogadas el Profe Jiménez // One of Guadalajara’s greatest gifts to mankind, tortas ahogadas are, quite literally, drowned tortas: a carnitas-stuffed birote roll drenched in spicy salsa. At this legendary stand, every element shines as it should: the birote is crispy, the meat – choose from options like carnitas and rib – is juicy, and the salsa is spicy enough to bring the heat while making you want more. And while the torta is the main draw, you’d be missing out if you don’t order at least one taco de carnitas.
Where to Drink
Mecenas // Call it ambition, obsession, or perhaps a little bit of both. It was a desire for total control over quality that led the team at Mecenas –helmed by chef José Luis Hinostroza and head bartender Arturo Santos – to make this Colonia Americana bar a full DIY experience. Here, everything from the liqueurs and fortified wines is made in-house, while spirits are produced in partnership with local distilleries. The result: concoctions like the Monje, made with housemade green Chartreuse, pineapple tepache eau de vie, and a drop of lemongrass oil.
El Gallo Altanero // Few places have captured my heart like this temple of all things agave. Led by Freddy Andreasson, Swedish by birth but fully Tapatío by conviction, El Gallo holds an impressive collection of indie spirits, from tequila and mezcal to raicilla and bacanora. The cocktail selection is just as exciting, featuring seasonal creations like a plum highball or mango martini. Loud, lively, and unpretentious, the atmosphere will grant you some of your most fun Guadalajara nights.
De La O // If, like me, you appreciate the art of day drinking, this hip cantina is the place for you. Under the “guadalatiki” banner, De La O shakes up the best of both worlds: local cantina tradition with irresistible tiki flavors. Case in point: the Pepita Tequila Mai Tai, made with pumpkin seed orgeat. The menu also features classics, drinks inspired by the Mexican Revolution, and excellent zero-proof options. For best results, pair with a carnitas taco or a juicy lonche de cochinita.
Pare de Sufrir // The message here is clear: stop suffering, drink mezcal. A local favorite for nearly two decades, Pare de Sufrir is a paradise for mezcal lovers, with 70+ labels behind the bar, including Mezonte, a traditional mezcal project founded by Pare owner Pedro Jiménez. From Thursday to Sunday, sway under the disco ball to the irresistible beats of salsa, cumbia, and other tropical sounds, courtesy of an eclectic roster of DJs.
Where to Explore
Museo Cabañas // Founded in the nineteenth century as a hospice for orphans and the elderly – many people still call it Hospicio Cabañas – this cultural center is housed in a beautiful building designed by architect Manuel Tolsá. Rotating exhibitions and a thriving activity calendar keep visitors coming back again and again, but it’s the Capilla Mayor, alive with José Clemente Orozco’s extraordinary murals, that makes it a must-visit for anyone visiting the city.
Tlaquepaque // Just a 15-minute drive from downtown Guadalajara, this charming town is bustling with color and creativity, thanks to its diverse community of artisans and creators. Stroll down Andador Independencia, where historic mansions have been converted into workshops and galleries –from pottery and jewelry to painting and sculpture. One of my favorites: Del Corazón de la Tierra, with an extensive selection of crafts from Mexico and Guatemala.
Teatro Degollado // Of Mexico’s countless gorgeous historic centers, Guadalajara’s has to be one of the prettiest. One of its many wonders is this theater, a neoclassical architectural treasure from the nineteenth century. With its stunning portico, graced by the nine muses of ancient Greece, and its imposing concert hall, featuring a mural depicting Dante’s Divine Comedy, the building itself is worth a visit. Catching a performance by the Jalisco Philharmonic, though, will make the visit truly unforgettable.
Art Gallery Tour // Guadalajara’s thriving contemporary art scene is a reflection of the city’s rich cultural heritage and fearless creative present. The exciting landscape includes galleries like Tiro al Blanco, dedicated to promoting dialogue through art; Palma Galería, focused on emerging artists whose work speaks of their cultural context; and Guadalajara 90210, where experimental creation takes center stage.
Where do you want us to feature next? Have a story for us? Shoot an email over to Cristina@Mexzine.com or Brandon@Mexzine.com.
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