Destination Guide: Oaxaca
Where to stay, eat, drink, plus visit in Mexico's most enchanting locale. Mezcal, Mole, and more.
Hola Mexziners!
I’ve been counting the days to write about Oaxaca, one of my absolute favorite places on this planet. Oaxaca perfectly encapsulates everything that makes this country so incredible: from archaeological sites, beautiful crafts, and contemporary art, to extraordinary cuisine and, of course, mezcal. Most of all, I love the fact that Oaxacans are deeply proud of their state, and they work hard to keep its culture thriving.
I put together this guide to some of my very favorite spots, and I can promise there will be many more Oaxacan adventures in Mexzine’s future. For your reference, here’s a Google Map we made of all our Oaxaca recs below.
–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor
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Where to Stay
Casa Santo Origen // If you want to be close to downtown Oaxaca without being in it, Casa Santo Origen offers a break with its San Felipe location, a 15-minute drive from the action. Tranquil and welcoming, the hotel features eight spacious suites, each inspired by a different Oaxacan region, like Istmo and Costa. A lovely outdoor pool – perfect for cooling down on those hot Oaxaca days – and a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant, Entre Sombras, give you two solid excuses to take a break in between city explorations.
Grana B&B // Set in a restored eighteenth-century casona, Grana may bear the name B&B, but has expanded its offerings over the years, becoming one of the loveliest and warmest boutique stays in town. Its 14 rooms range from cozy and compact to luxuriously spacious, with living areas and standalone tubs. Downstairs, the seriously gorgeous kitchen welcomes you for a hearty Oaxacan breakfast each morning, as well as happy hour sips and complimentary coffee and tea throughout the day.
Otro Oaxaca // Standing right by the Santo Domingo church, Otro Oaxaca stuns with its design, courtesy of architect Joâo Boto Caeiro, from the second you step in. Imposing Brutalist structures draw inspiration from Oaxacan treasures, like Mitla and Santo Domingo, making all 16 suites and common areas as inspiring as the city itself. The underground spa offers indigenous-inspired treatments and a cenote-like immersion pool, while the rooftop – a Grupo Habita trademark – is ideal for a sunset cocktail.
Casa Antonieta // A lovely hideaway in downtown Oaxaca, this boutique hotel is housed inside a restored sixteenth-century house, once part of the neighboring San Pablo Convent complex. The classic main courtyard serves as the centerpiece – leafy and relaxing, it’s perfect for a cup of coffee in the morning from the excellent Muss Café, while the rooftop awaits with glasses of natural wine in the afternoon. Styled with local textiles and rattan headboards, the ground-floor suites face the courtyard, while the upstairs rooms offer views of the leafy terrace.
Where to Eat
Alfonsina // Teaming up with his mother, Elvia, chef Jorge León opened this extraordinary restaurant in his family home back in 2018 and named it after his grandmother. From a delicate fish with mole to a hearty barbacoa taco, everything is made with seasonal, responsibly sourced ingredients, resulting in a beautifully honest and always surprising menu, ideally paired with low-intervention wines or fantastic artisanal mezcals. The team’s commitment to sustainability extends beyond the kitchen, with practices like a rainwater-collecting system, dry compost bathrooms, and a strict no-plastic policy.
Crudo // The concept of Crudo may sound odd at first: a blend of Oaxacan flavors and Japanese techniques. Yet by the first few bites, you’re bound to be convinced by the brilliance of chef Ricardo Arellano’s creations. While the bar serves an à la carte menu, I highly recommend booking a spot at the Chef’s Private Room or La Casa, where an omakase experience promises to surprise you from beginning to end.
La Cocina de Humo // Led by chef Thalía Barrios, of the equally excellent Levadura de Olla, La Cocina de Humo is not so much a restaurant as it is an intimate celebration of the culinary traditions of Sierra Sur, where chef Thalía is from. Sitting in an open kitchen, you’ll be treated to a generous feast cooked with regional ingredients and deep respect for tradition, feeling as if you’d been welcomed into someone’s home. Choose between lunch or dinner, or try your culinary skills during a cooking class.
Pasillo de Humo // The name itself is a promise: “the smoke corridor.” A highlight of the bustling Mercado 20 de Noviembre, this section is dedicated to all things grilled, with a series of stalls doling out specialties like chorizo, cecina (salted, air-fried beef), and tasajo (thinly sliced, cured beef) with sides like grilled onions, nopales, and a healthy dose of tortillas. Grab one of the communal tables, and delight in the art of creating your own tacos –smelling like smoke for the rest of the day is totally worth it.
Where to Drink
La Mezcaloteca // If there’s one place I never miss when I go to Oaxaca, it is La Mezcaloteca. In 2010, this mezcal library was founded with a clear mission: promoting artisanal, non-commercial mezcal and the maestros mezcaleros who produce it. Available by reservation only, your journey here will be completely personalized, led by a pro who will select mezcals (and other agave delights, like sotol or bacanora) that suit your taste profile and spark your curiosity.
Sabina Sabe // Named after iconic Oaxacan healer María Sabina, known for her work with psychedelic mushrooms, this laid-back bar celebrates mezcal and its mysticism. The best seat in the house, of course, is by the bar, where the team boasts an extensive selection of mezcal and other agave spirits from regions like Guerrero or Jalisco. The creative cocktail menu changes every six months or so, making the most of seasonal ingredients, while classics like the mezcal Negroni are a sure bet.
Selva // Stylish and lively, Selva is a prime spot for expertly crafted cocktails and people-watching. The menu, a sort of “choose your own adventure” affair, leads you along a selection that ranges from classics and martinis to highballs and zero-proof options, ensuring you land exactly where you need to. A couple of highlights? The Oaxaca Gibson with pitiona (a local aromatic bush) and the Miahuatlán, made with mezcal, oloroso sherry, Cynar, and shiitake mushrooms.
Los Amantes // Imagined by the team behind Los Amantes mezcal, this charming little mezcalería stands in the very heart of downtown, making it quite hard to avoid the temptation of walking in for a sip any time you’re strolling around the area. With eclectic decor, easygoing bartenders, and live music performances by Don Zenón and his guitar, the night flows to the rhythm of mezcal – and usually ends with you making a few new friends.
Where to Explore
Centro Cultural San Pablo // Once the first convent in Oaxaca, an architectural treasure from 1529, this cultural center is now one of the most fascinating corners in town. Under architects Mauricio Rocha and Gabriela Carrillo’s vision, the damaged building was carefully restored and creatively refreshed with sleek additions that beautifully bring past and present together. Temporary exhibitions, workshops, and performances keep the calendar busy all year long.
Museo Textil de Oaxaca // Housed in a restored eighteenth-century house, this enchanting museum is dedicated to Oaxaca’s treasured textiles, as well as worldwide expressions of this craft. The expansive collection features textiles from Oaxaca, Tamaulipas, and Guatemala, available to students and researchers upon request. Intimate and easy to navigate, the museum features temporary exhibitions that not only showcase the beauty of textiles but also their role in different communities across time and place.
Palenque Tour // For many of us, mezcal is somewhat of a recent discovery –a liquid that got its much-deserved time in the spotlight perhaps a couple of decades ago. In reality, mezcal is deeply rooted in Oaxacan identity, a tradition transmitted across generations. There’s no better way to discover its nuances than going straight to the source: a tour of a production palenque. Distilleries like Hacienda Tradición offer guided tours, but my favorite experiences are led by Bakuza’s Remy Reyes, who leads soulful adventures that may also include stops at the market or even a secret waterfall.
Jardín Etnobiológico de Oaxaca // Led by legendary Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo and the power of community among local society, this garden came into fruition: a place to preserve and share the state’s rich biodiversity. Donated by Oaxacan communities, more than 5,000 plants line the garden’s corridors today, from mountain plants to cacti to medicinal herbs. Across the garden, art interacts with nature, with sculptures by artists like Jorge Du Bon, Luis Zárate, and Toledo himself.
Where do you want us to feature next? Have a story for us? Shoot an email over to Cristina@Mexzine.com or Brandon@Mexzine.com.
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my fave 💕