Hola friends,
I always find the terms “overrated” and “underrated” a little subjective. After all, destinations, restaurants, and experiences are always subject to personal taste and interpretation. When it comes to Puebla, though, I feel pretty comfortable calling it one of Mexico’s most underrated destinations. Hear me out: Puebla isn't little-known or undiscovered. Most of us know about its rich historic heritage and spectacular culinary offerings, among the country’s most prized. Yet for some reason, lots of travelers – both domestic and foreign – tend to skip Puebla on their itineraries, and I think that’s a mistake. Only a couple of hours by car from Mexico City, it’s the perfect weekend getaway or trip extension –one that will definitely enrich your Mexico travels.
Let’s go!
–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor
Where to Stay
CasaReyna // The walls of this storied construction pay tribute to Puebla’s living history, with remains of what was once a group of sixteenth-century homes intertwining with modern touches and details in the state’s iconic talavera pottery, as envisioned by architect Ricardo Legorreta, artist Esteban Chapital, and businesswoman Angélica Moreno. Resting in one of its 46 spacious rooms and suites means you are mere feet away from its intimate spa, Talavera de la Reina boutique, and best of all, its excellent restaurant. Highly recommended: the Mole Tasting Platter, featuring pork and chicken bathed in four regional moles.
Cartesiano // A series of restored sixteenth- and seventeenth-century casonas, Cartesiano highlights the city’s rich history while placing you firmly in the present with contemporary furnishings and amenities. Beyond the beautiful architecture and design, it’s the hotel’s focus on wellness that sets it apart, with complimentary activities – think hatha yoga or sound healing sessions – every morning included in your stay, and an expansive spa featuring a full hydrotherapy circuit and a healing garden. The lovely restaurant, Custodia, awaits with regional specialties and a very photogenic bar.
La Purificadora // Past meets present in this iconic boutique hotel, placed in what was once the water purifying plant that gives it its name, and reimagined by Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta. Nineteenth-century stone walls bring character to its sleek rooms and suites, offering spacious bathrooms, a working desk, and views of the Church of San Francisco’s gardens next door. On the ground floor, the restaurant blends traditional Puebla cuisine with inventive touches, while the patio features cozy fire pits, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring the city.
Casona de los Sapos // Housed in a seventeenth-century mansion, this boutique hotel is infused with Puebla’s rich history and timeless charm. After a day of sightseeing, there’s no better plan than unwinding at its indoor pool before retreating to one of its 19 suites, outfitted in classic furnishings and bathed in sunlight – plus L’Occitane bath amenities. Local cuisine shines as well, be it at its beloved restaurant or at La Francesita, a bakery that honors the city’s French influence, one fluffy pastry at a time.
Where to Eat
Augurio // Shaped by the memories of his father’s eatery, Chef Ángel Vázquez has created a warm, welcoming temple of Puebla cuisine, blending tradition and evolution in creations like duck tamal with mole poblano, Atlixco cecina (salted beef) tacos, and roasted cauliflower in white mole. Harmonious pairings come courtesy of sommelier Gina De La Mora, whose selection explores labels from Mexico, California, and Spain. Monthly Taco Tuesdays bring inventive creations by guest chefs and ice-cold beer.
Moyuelo // With a Mexican soul and adventurous spirit, Chef Fernando Hernández’s kitchen presents an elegantly inventive counterpart to the city’s deeply rooted culinary traditions. International inspiration, particularly from Asia, shines in visually stunning creations like pork belly baos with salsa macha and crab gringa with katsuobushi-jalapeño sauce. The liquid selection is equally excellent, with small-batch wines and cocktails like the Negroni de Pasita, featuring the city’s iconic pasita liqueur, made with raisins.
El Mural de los Poblanos // A veritable Puebla institution, El Mural de los Poblanos has been serving traditional local fare for nearly two decades. Housed in a seventeenth-century mansion, its colorful murals depict famous Puebla natives, giving the restaurant its name. Timeless favorites like fideo seco, chalupas, and mole poblano grace the menu, but perhaps the star arrives only once a year, between July and September: chile en nogada, an iconic dish of roasted poblano peppers stuffed with minced meat and local fruit, and bathed in walnut sauce. With more than 200 Mexican labels on the list, it’s a dream for exploring the world of Mexican wines.
Cemitas Lupita // Placed inside Mercado de la Diagonal, this no-frills spot has been doling out some of the best cemitas in town since 1984. Pure comfort, these sandwiches start with cemitas (a soft sesame-topped roll) and feature an array of fillings, including beef milanesa, sausage, ham, and spicy meat. Avocado, mountains of cheese, and a touch of aromatic pápalo leaf crown each bite.
Where to Drink
La Pasita // This tiny cantina was founded in 1916 by Emilio Contreras, creator of Puebla’s beloved pasita liqueur, a sweet raisin-based concoction, and remains packed with eclectic memorabilia and lore. According to legend, bartenders back in the day used to pour pasita suited to the number of blocks patrons could drink without passing out. Today, the family still runs the bar and keeps tradition alive, pouring shot glasses of pasita garnished with a cube of goat cheese and a raisin, plus imaginative cocktails like the China Poblana, with mint liqueur, hibiscus, egg, and blackberry.
Miel de Agave // Led by proudly Puebla-born Chef Liz Galicia, this laid-back downtown joint is a shrine to the state’s extraordinary mezcal and culinary traditions. Grab a seat at the beautiful bar, lined with dozens of intriguing labels, ranging from local mezcal to Oaxacan rum. Sip these wonders neat or in inventive cocktails like the Romántico (whisky, vermouth, berries) paired with excellent bites, such as chapulín-topped guacamole, cecina ceviche, and shrimp chicharrón. If you want to explore a bit further, book a guided tasting and let the expert team lead the way.
Caléndula // Nature inspires every element of the liquid experience at this lovely downtown bar, with a seasonally rotating menu that features creations like the Brazica (mezcal, kale, and cucumber) and the Pink Bitter (Campari, pineapple, lemon, and egg white). Timeless sips like Negronis and dirty martinis are equally tempting, as is the pulque, an ancestral Mexican beverage made of fermented sap of the agave plant. Dimly lit and beautifully styled, the space sets the mood for an evening of strong drinks and good conversation.
Where to Explore
Museo Amparo // Breathe in history at every turn at this beautiful Centro Histórico museum. Its home, a sixteenth-century building, was brought to the twenty-first century by renowned Mexican architecture studio TEN, and holds an impressive collection that takes you on a true journey across time. Start with El México Antiguo, one of the largest collections of pre-Hispanic art by a private institution, before diving into viceregal treasures, all the way to contemporary work by national artists like Graciela Iturbide and Manuel Felguérez.
Cholula // Only a 30-minute drive from downtown Puebla, this picturesque town is packed with historic wonders and youthful energy, courtesy of the students at Universidad de las Américas. Stroll around town and admire the Baroque beauty of the Templo de San Francisco Acatepec, and climb up to the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, built in the sixteenth century atop the Cholula Pyramid and offering postcard-worthy views of Popocatépetl. After getting your dose of culture, grab a drink at Licorería San Pedrito.
Talavera Uriarte // Thanks to its intricate designs and glossy enamel, talavera pottery has become a symbol of Puebla craftsmanship. A tour of Talavera Uriarte grants you front-row access to the production process, unchanged since the workshop opened in 1824. From classic dishware and vases to modern tiles, every piece confirms Uriarte’s living legacy – one of the first workshops to be certified under regulations that grant Appellation of Origin. If you’re feeling creative, upgrade your tour with a painting session and personalize your own piece (a great idea if you’re traveling with kids).
Museo Internacional del Barroco // Puebla’s immense Baroque heritage found a modern home in 2016, when this striking building by Pritzker-awarded architect Toyo Ito opened its doors to the public. As the first museum in the world solely focused on Baroque art, every gallery is an invitation to its many expressions, from sculpture and architecture to music and cuisine. Multimedia and interactive exhibitions make navigation very user-friendly. Crown your visit with lunch at Conventual, a restaurant serving traditional cocina poblana.
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