Hey, Mexzine friends!
I’m so excited to share this guide with you. San Cristóbal de las Casas is one of those places whose magic is hard to capture, but I will do my best. Rising among the clouds in the Chiapas Highlands, San Cristóbal bustles with living history – a blend of Tzotzil and Tsetsal Maya heritage, colonial architecture, and an artistic, creative present. I’ve loved San Cristóbal since my first visit in 2015, and every time I go back, I’m just as fascinated with its rich local crafts, its fantastic coffee – you’ll notice that the Where to Drink section is more caffeine-than-booze-oriented – and most of all, its people, who are deeply proud to keep this city evolving while celebrating its roots.
Let’s explore!
–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor
Where to Stay
Hotel Bo // Envisioned as “a place to watch the rain falling,” this enchanting boutique hotel is a modern tribute to Chiapas and its culture. Designed by Muro Rojo architecture studio, its 22 spacious guest rooms are brought to life by colorful textiles, hexagonal tiles, and local crafts. Its boutique, Doce Lenguas, is perfect for souvenir shopping, with a curated selection of traditional crafts and modern design pieces, all Chiapas-made. Should rain showers, indeed, come your way, the library is especially cozy.
Sombra del Agua // Named after a poem by celebrated Chiapas-born poet Jaime Sabines, this hotel is housed in what was once San Cristóbal’s first luxury hotel in the early twentieth century: Hotel Español, its historic past still enriching its spirit. The state’s culture and soul infuse every space, from local pottery in the sunny courtyard honoring the traditions of Amatenango del Valle, to a candle-lined hallway that evokes the mystical atmosphere of the church at San Juan Chamula. Don’t skip dinner at its excellent restaurant, Tarumba, or a sip of pox at Casa Poxná.
Taller de Juan // Part boutique hotel, part art studio, this carefully designed space is placed at the heart of San Cristóbal, providing a welcoming retreat to start and end your days. Sculptures and paintings by artist Juan Martínez Parente fill each space with personality, from the hallways to the warm, welcoming rooms, equipped with bath amenities by Loredana, textiles from Camino de los Altos, and even record players to set the mood. After a day of strolling around town, head back for an in-suite massage, followed by a glass of wine by the outdoor fireplace.
Where to Eat
Tarumba // Deeply rooted in tradition and yet incredibly creative, a meal at Tarumba (placed inside Sombra del Agua hotel) is an immersion into some of the lesser-known flavors and culinary traditions of Chiapas. Chef Jorge Gordillo’s inspiring tasting menu is charged with stories, each dish evoking a moment, a person, or a local custom. The cocktails, by Cristina Martínez, are just as enchanting, most of them made with pox (a local corn-based spirit). Dinner is also available à la carte, but nothing beats sitting at the chef’s table.
Tierra y Cielo // Proud ambassadors of Chiapas cuisine, chefs Marta Zepeda and Kievf Rueda (who also happen to be married) have been at the helm of this beloved restaurant for nearly two decades. Set in a charming colonial house, Tierra y Cielo offers an extensive menu that celebrates the state’s unique cuisine, including a handful of themed tasting menus like Sabores de Chiapas. Not to be missed: the house quesadillas and mole coleto, a San Cristóbal classic, best paired with a glass or two of Mexican wine.
Cocoliche // Laid-back and unpretentious, Cocoliche is one of those places you may end up visiting more than once when you come to San Cristóbal. The eclectic space is cute, the staff is super friendly, and the menu is varied enough to offer new options each time you stop by, ranging from huge salads and pasta dishes to green curry and grilled arrachera, with live music filling the air almost every evening.
Sarajevo Café Jardín // One of the most charming venues in San Cristóbal –and an excellent option for a laptop-and-coffee session–, this plant-filled space is a favorite for breakfast and lunch, serving healthier options like quinoa pancakes and tuna bowls to the sound of live piano and relaxed conversation. As the afternoon progresses, happy hour (from 6:00 to 9:00 PM) brings budget-friendly cocktails and, on weekends, DJs spinning tunes.
Where to Drink
Poshería // A San Cristóbal icon since 2010, Poshería started as the city’s first pox tasting room – a colorful, whimsical space to discover the secrets behind this sweet and slightly smoky corn-based spirit, profoundly tied to Chiapas’ traditions and customs. Its name means “medicine” in the Tzotzil Maya language, and after a couple of sips, you may discover why. Try it neat, paired with coffee-dusted orange slices, or in lower-ABV flavored liquors, including vanilla, chocolate, and coffee.
Histórico Tostador // Imagined by the team behind the legendary Finca Hamburgo, one of Chiapas’ top coffee producers since 1888, this gorgeous complex is dedicated to all things coffee. Here, you’ll find a house roaster, a lovely cafe, a bar, and a bakery, as well as a restaurant – get the grilled cheese! – and even a plant nursery. Aspiring baristas and caffeine aficionados of all experience levels can partake in workshops and tastings with the team of experts.
Cafeología // Founded by Jesús Salazar, better known as Cafeólogo, this cozy space is part of a decades-long project designed to promote Chiapas coffee, creating fair conditions for everyone involved, from producers and baristas to distributors. Stop by for a fantastic flat white and a pastry, or enjoy a full breakfast before heading out to explore. A bag of coffee beans –each featuring the name and face of its producer – will make for a perfect souvenir.
Where to Explore
San Juan Chamula // About a 30-minute drive from San Cristóbal, this town is an immersion in Chiapas’ mysticism and intricate blend of cultures and religions. As an autonomous Tzotzil Maya village, San Juan Chamula has its own government and police, with around 80,000 citizens who remain fiercely resistant and independent. The ultimate expression of the town’s unique spirit hides within its church, where Mayan beliefs intersect with Catholicism, and copal smoke wafts over dozens and dozens of candles.
Cañón del Sumidero // One of Chiapas’ many natural wonders, this stunning canyon, set within the national park of the same name, rises over the Grijalva River, with imposing walls as high as 1,000 meters. Board a boat tour from Embarcadero Cahuaré (about an hour-long drive from San Cristóbal) and sail among waterfalls and intriguing rock formations, spotting endemic birds, crocodiles, and even spider monkeys along the way. If hiking is your thing, there are several trails within the park that lead to beautiful lookouts.
Na Bolom // Set in a neoclassical building from the late nineteenth century, this museum – whose name means “house of the jaguar” – was purchased in 1950 by Danish archaeologist Frans Blom and photographer Trudy Duby Blom, who dedicated their lives to researching the lives of the Lacandona people and fighting against the deforestation that threatened their livelihood. Na Bolom also features a library, a restaurant, a hotel, and a plant nursery designed to support reforestation projects across Chiapas’ indigenous communities.
Centro de Textiles del Mundo Maya // Housed inside the sixteenth-century building that was once the Convent of Santo Domingo, this gorgeous space is dedicated to preserving and promoting the rich textile traditions of the Maya world. The extensive collection features more than 2,500 pieces, spanning regions like Tabasco, Chiapas, and Yucatán in Mexico, as well as Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, and El Salvador. Beautiful displays and comprehensive information make this museum a true treat if you want to learn more about the Maya’s endless knowledge and traditions.