Mexzine Culture Edit - Issue V
The Mexico travel hack we swear by, a cookbook celebrating Northern Mexico, and a flower market in CDMX that will put you in a good mood.
Hola, Mexzine friends!
Vast and wild, Northern Mexico still feels like a lesser-known frontier for travelers - even Mexicans. I’m excited to share this week’s Culture Edit, featuring Karla Zazueta, an Ensenada-born, London-based cook and writer whose made it her mission to share the rich culinary traditions of her region. And while we’re up north, EIC Brandon Berkson shares a wallet-friendly Mexico travel hack that starts at Tijuana’s airport. That said, I promise we aren’t only talking about places above the Tropic of Cancer in today’s issue - we also pinpoint a magical flower-filled mercado in Mexico City that’s worth your time.
–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor
Let’s Chat: Karla Zazueta, author of the cookbook Norteña
It’s a long way from Ensenada to London. Baja-born Karla Zazueta has been representing Mexico in the UK for more than two decades, sharing traditions through cooking classes, supper clubs, and her cookbook Norteña, a celebration of the flavors of northern Mexico. Cristina Alonso chatted with Karla to learn more about her journey and what it means to be an ambassador for Mexican cuisine.
How did you end up cooking Mexican food in England?
“I was born in Ensenada and came to England 23 years ago through a teaching exchange program. I met my husband four months later, so here I am. I worked as a teacher for the first seven years, but I’ve always cooked. I come from a very big family. My mom is from Sinaloa and is one of 14 siblings, and my dad, who’s from Ensenada, has seven siblings. So both sides of my family were always big on cooking from scratch.
My first years here were hard because there was no such thing as Mexican food. People had a vague notion of what bad Tex-Mex was. After I had kids, I decided to stop teaching, and started writing a food blog in my free time. After that, things started to happen organically: I started hosting supper clubs in my house, offering cooking classes, and posting food photos on Instagram, which led to the book deal for Norteña. I think it’s the way it happens for a lot of people these days, with social media helping pave the way.”
Mexican food has gained much more international popularity over the past few years. How have things evolved for you?
“Ingredients have always been a challenge. I’ve learned how to search everywhere, from markets to Turkish stores. And I’ve learned to make many things myself. For example, for years I had to use feta because there were no Mexican cheeses here, but now I’ve learned to make queso fresco and panela myself. I make chorizo; I nixtamalize corn for tortillas. If you’d met me 23 years ago, you wouldn’t believe how much my cooking has evolved. And luckily, since Mexican food has gotten more popular here, you can find a good variety of dried chilies. We also have very good restaurants now, like Taquería Sonora and Fonda.”
Not a lot of people – not even Mexicans – are aware of what cocina norteña is. What does it mean to you to showcase it with your book?
“It’s very exciting for me to give it visibility. For a long time, it has had less representation than other cuisines, but it’s just as good and diverse, with a very strong identity. Growing up in Ensenada, I was surrounded by traditions, so this book is my personal tribute to my family history, and to share the way northern families eat.
My book is, of course, dedicated to my dad. He passed 17 years ago, and he was the soul of my family. He never needed an excuse to cook a carne asada. He loved being by the grill or in the kitchen. At breakfast, he was already talking about what we would have for lunch. Many of the recipes I included are his, the way he made them. I included his recipe for fish tacos. I also featured many Sinaloan recipes from my mom’s side, like Sinaloa-style tamales, which we make with a blend of shredded pork and beef, wrapped in dried corn husks.”
What are your favorite places to eat at when you come back to Mexico?
“We love going to Mexico City. And of course, we always go to Baja California. Some of my favorite spots are El Güero, a seafood cart in Ensenada; Tacos Manuel in Rosarito; and Leonardo’s, a breakfast place in San Antonio de las Minas near Valle de Guadalupe.”
I Swear by This Mexico Travel Hack
It's late afternoon, and I'm typing this from my hotel in Mexico City. I brought my mom here; it’s her first time in the capital. We landed this morning off a 5:01 am Aeroméxico flight from Tijuana, and the division of labor is now clear: I'm yawning, she's thriving, already lacing up to amble around Roma Norte while I operate sans slumber. One of us slept on that plane, and it wasn't me. I can't help it - I get too excited taking her to places I love this much to intermittently close my eyes.
So, touching on how I got here this morning - I’m about to reveal a secret hiding in plain sight at the San Diego-Tijuana border: a penny-saving bridge that oozes efficiency. From what I have gathered, nothing close to it exists elsewhere in the world. Cross Border Xpress - CBX - is a skybridge that transports you directly from the U.S. side of the border into Tijuana’s well-kept airport. Park in San Diego (or get dropped off via bus or Uber), scan your ticket, show your passport and boarding pass, then walk across. Five minutes later, you’re airside in Mexico.
Why it matters: TIJ, or General Abelardo L. Rodríguez International Airport (if you want to be official), flies deep into Mexico in a way San Diego never will. Direct routes to Oaxaca, Mérida, Guadalajara, La Paz, and CDMX - at domestic Mexican fares, because Volaris treats Tijuana as a hub. I’ve seen round-trip tickets to Mazatlán for less than two days’ worth of groceries from Whole Foods.
Having grown up in San Diego, the CBX bridge is my favorite travel hack. It’s $31.99 one way (to be honest, they keep raising the price little by little every year, which is annoying, but in the grand scheme of things, it remains a wallet-friendly trick).
The hack, distilled: if you’re in Southern California and headed to Mexico, stop searching for LAX. Search TIJ, book CBX, and walk to your gate in another country. It’s a massive cheat code, to say the least. -BB
Mercado Dive: Mercado Jamaica, Mexico City
If you’re anything like me, there are few better mood-boosters than fresh flowers. If that’s the case, this massive Mexico City market might just be the best kind of therapy. Located southeast of the city’s Centro Histórico, Mercado de Jamaica features around 1,200 stalls selling more than 5,000 flower varieties hailing from places like Puebla, Michoacán, and the State of Mexico. Towering sunflowers, aromatic roses, and bright lilies are among the countless flowers you can find here, whether you’re looking to create an arrangement or simply surround yourself with beauty. Make sure to come hungry: the market is home to fantastic food stalls like Huaraches Rossy and Elotes y Esquites Estrada. –CA
Where do you want us to feature next? Have a story for us? Shoot an email over to Cristina@Mexzine.com or Brandon@Mexzine.com.
Mexzine is a Hotels Above Par media brand that’s edited in Mexico City. Support independent media and real journalism via a paid subscription.
Adore mercado Jamaica
Good stories. Great idea to put Mercado Jamaica on the spot