Hey there, Mexzine friends!
When I was little, I used to make fun of my mom for saying, “Christmas is almost here,” when the school year was just starting. These days, I don’t blame her. I can’t believe how fast this year is going by. With that in mind, I think it’s only fair to make the most of what’s left of the summer, so we’re getting a bit tropical on this Culture Edit: exploring cenotes on the Yucatán Peninsula, checking out one of the most beloved restaurants in Todos Santos, and dreaming of a private villa in Puerto Escondido.
Cheers to summer!
–Cristina Alonso, Managing Editor
Explainer: The Mystical World of Cenotes
If you Google “Riviera Maya” or “Yucatán,” it is highly likely that you’ll come across photos of cenotes, a complex network of caves and waterways that crisscross the Yucatán Peninsula, proving it has some of the most spectacular natural settings in the world. But beyond their beauty, cenotes are a major part of the area’s culture and identity. More than 65 million years ago, the entire Yucatán Peninsula was submerged underwater and was part of a coral reef system. The impact of the Chicxulub asteroid – yes, the one that wiped the dinosaurs off the face of the Earth – lifted this reef system out of the water. Over time, rain and seawater made their way back into some of the area’s limestone caves, and land collapsed, creating sinkholes.
There are more than 7,000 cenotes across the Peninsula, each of them a connection to living Maya culture. The word cenote comes from the Maya ts’ono’ot, meaning “hole filled with water,” and these mystical caves have not only been essential sources of freshwater for centuries, but were also considered gateways to the underworld, where we all go when we cease to exist on this planet. Back in the day, the Maya would ask permission from the gods to enter a cenote, offering everything from gold and jade to human sacrifices. These days, offerings may come in simpler forms – say, flowers or seeds – but approaching cenotes respectfully is as important as it has ever been.
As you explore cenotes across Yucatán and Quintana Roo, you’ll realize they come in all shapes, forms, and sizes. Some are small openings, others are dark and cave-like, while others are open-air pools. The same variety applies to the way they operate. While some cenotes are privately run, others may be located inside hotels (Palmaïa in Playa Carmen and Oriundo in Valladolid boast their own cenotes) or even archaeological sites, like Gran Cenote Sagrado in Chichén Itzá. While some cenotes are carefully managed, others get overcrowded and lose their magic (researching the most sustainable ones in your area is always a good idea). Activities also run the gamut, from simply admiring them from the outside to swimming in their cool waters or even free-diving among the rock formations.
Some of my favorite cenotes are Jardín del Edén, near Xpu Há; Cenote Esmeralda, in Bacalar, and Cenote Yokdzonot in Yucatán. Wherever you’re exploring and whichever cenote you choose, remember they are all part of an underground network, so keeping one clean means helping the entire system survive. Avoid sunscreen or hair products when you visit – many cenotes even require you to shower on-site before you dive in – and maybe even silently ask permission to enter. No human sacrifices required.
Restaurant Spotlight: Jazamango in Todos Santos
The ultimate Baja ambassador, Tijuana-born chef Javier Plascencia has spent more than three decades celebrating the region’s culinary greatness with border-crossing projects. At this open-air Todos Santos spot, seasonality rules the menu, making local delights –from Ensenada shellfish to produce from the restaurant’s own garden– the stars in every bite. Dishes I still dream of include grilled chocolata clams with butter and beef jerky and the Pizza Jazamango, with basil pesto, spicy meatballs, portobello mushrooms, mozzarella, and cherry tomatoes, a glass of Mexican rosé on the side. –CA
Casa Files: La Gema Escondida in Puerto Escondido
Puerto Escondido has no shortage of spectacular homes, but there’s something about this clifftop property: it has a huge heart. Owners Alex and Larry have infused every corner of the five-suite house with personality –think pretty wicker furniture, bold textiles, and thoughtful crafts from all over the country. The pièce de résistance, however, is the infinity pool, soaring above the crashing waves below, and reflecting spectacular colors as the sun sets over the Pacific. –CA
That concludes today’s issue. Have a story for us? Want to send us an establishment or destination in Mexico that we should write about? Email us at Brandon@Mexzine.com and Cristina@Mexzine.com.